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Front end on Blazer '03 w/4WD squeaks

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  #11  
Old 02-17-2014, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by okiedoak20
I would first check the simple stuff....like sway bar bushings
And shock bushings.....from my experiance when a ball joint is on the
Way out it starts to have a clunk sound.not a squeek sound
I agree with checking the other items completely 100%. But, isn't checking the ball joints one part of the simple stuff?

Here's a thread where post #3 is an ok summary. The only thing I would adjust is that you take weight off the suspension by putting jack stands under the frame. Then you use the jack to raise the lower control arm until it's horizontal. If you don't have a dial indicator, sometimes you can feel the movement if they're bad enough. Notice to check the lower ball joint you need to use a pry bar. https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...-joints-41612/

What I've found when ball joints are going, there is often a squeak. By the time the clunk is happening, they're gone.
 
  #12  
Old 02-17-2014, 02:41 PM
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I mean you should just be able to put the frame on jackstand and stick your head between the tire and the wheel well and look down and see the top of the BJ and the grease zerk its right there on the top of the end of the upper control arm.
 
  #13  
Old 02-18-2014, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by versechorusverse
I mean you should just be able to put the frame on jackstand and stick your head between the tire and the wheel well and look down and see the top of the BJ and the grease zerk its right there on the top of the end of the upper control arm.
Sidebar real quick here guys.
I've been to Belle Tire 3 times in the past 2 weeks. The first time they patched tires for me and did a shake down to see if any more steering/suspension components needed replacing. That was in Troy, Michigan. They said nope, good to go.

Then, I went to their Chesterfield, Michigan location and asked for an alignment .They said that I'd be wasting my money on an alignment because my right lower ball joint was bad. This past weekend I R&Red that balljoint.

Yesterday, I took 'da Jimmer to da Rochester Hills, Michigan location and asked for an alignment, telling them that the RL ball joint, idler arm, and pitman arm had been replaced. I get a call an hour later saying that my left upper ball joint should be replaced before I get an alignment.

So, I guess I'll be replacing that this weekend. What do you guys make of this? Also, I've read on some threads that many just replace the whole upper control arm rather than doing just the ball joint, because there isn't much of a price difference. Can anyone describe the removal process of the upper control arm? Is it just like this in this video?

Also, on my estimate for the R&R of the upper ball joint, they included the $50 price for a thrust alignment. That has me wondering, does that mean that they only adjust the steering with respect to one angle, or is thrust angle alignment a total alignment?

BTW, to the OP, Rockauto has great prices for ball joints. Additionally, if you're an Amazon Prime member, you can get the ball joint very inexpensively and get it sent to you 2nd day shipping for free. If you're not an Amazon Prime member, it's free if you or a family member is a student. Right now Moog ball joints on Rockauto are around $40 for a 4x4. TRW has them for like $7 on closeout. IDK which to choose from on those options. Moog has the reputation, but $40 is a lot more than $7.
 
  #14  
Old 02-19-2014, 02:30 AM
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On which ball joint to choose, its really up to your budget. I bought my Moogs from Oreillys at their ridiculous price but when I replace them I can just drive another car down to oreillys and get mine warrentied right then. I also recommend the lifetime alignment from firestone, its expensive (160 with a coupon)but if you plan on keeping the car a while itll pay its self off.

The video is slightly different on ours we have a camber bolt on each side of the upper control arm, I would not use an impact on the camber bolts when I used an impact the force of it actually caused the metal pieces that the lobes rest against to adjust camber to bend. The camber lobes spun and bent the metal pieces into a nice circle shape, luckily I was putting my lift kit on and didnt need those anymore.

IDK what the price is on the upper control arm but I would just get it over with and drill out/grind/air chisel off the rivited upper BJs that way its easier to do it in the future rather than buying an upper control arm with it already on. If you replace the upper control arm your camber will probably be off just make sure if you do it yourself you reinstall the camber bolts and lobes the same way they came out I would mark them with a paint marker then go get an alignment.
 

Last edited by versechorusverse; 02-19-2014 at 02:33 AM.
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