How Hard would it be to change leaf springs?
#11
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The difference between that link and your truck is that the spring is under your axle.
#12
#13
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Yeah, but the problem that most run into is that the steel sleeve in the bushing on the end of the spring tends to rust fast to the bolt making them one. I find that a saws-all works great to remedy this situation.
#14
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Oh, so if I end up having to cut through that bolt, I will be SOL, or do the springs usually bring new bolts?
#15
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You need to have a jack stand on the frame of the vehical and on the axle for support. I would do one side at a time. You can jack it up from the differential but put a jack stand on the axle near the spring, and one on the frame.
#16
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That is why I recommended having an all new set of bolts. Just in case. You can tell before hand if you are going to have problems. If you loosen the nut, then put a wrench on the bolt head and the bolt turns, then you will probably be ok.
#17
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Well, I started changing out the springs today. I started with the drivers side rear. I've managed to get the U-bolts off and the nuts off of the 2 bolts at each end of the spring. I was able to turn both bolt with a wrench so I know they're not rusted in there.....now the issue. I can't get those suckers out of there to save my life. No a whole lot of room to work with, but I've been hitting them with a hammer and nothing. Is there anything secret or technique anyone can share with me on how to get those 2 bolts out of there? Like I said, they're turning fine so they're not rusted in there...they're just very tight.
#18
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An air ratchet or impact gun on the bolt head, and using an extension to put pressure on the opposite end while backing out the bolt will work most of the time. Also try and make sure that there is as little of a load on the bolts for the springs as possible. Jack under the frame and the springs completely unloaded with the jack on the axle supporting just the weight of the axle. I would raise the body untill the springs are completely unloaded put a jack stand on the body and then put the floor jack on the axle and raise or lower the axle while turning a wrench on the bolt head to put the least amout of load on the bolts. Then you might be able to wrench or punch the bolts out.
#19
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Well, you may be experiencing the sleeve twisting in the rubber bushing. If that is the case, then the bolt is rusted to the sleeve. Most of the time, the sleeve will have some resistance from the rubber, but if the sleeve has freed itself from the bond with the rubber bushing and penetrating oil has gotten in there, it is possible for it to spin free without actually being free.
If that is the case, get out the saws-all and cut just to the inside of the shackle.
If that is the case, get out the saws-all and cut just to the inside of the shackle.
#20
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okay, I've run into another problem. I can't get the front bolt out because the gas tank is in the way. Am I supposed to remove the gas tank? When I started taking the bolt off, the nut was toward the outside...and the bolt head was on the inside. Is that right? I haven't read anything about having to remove the gas tank. I try to pull the bolt out, but the head is already hitting the gas tank and there's not more room to get it out.