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How Hard would it be to change leaf springs?

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  #21  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:28 AM
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Damn... Well that sucks. If that is the case, then you will have to loosen the gas tank and move it.
 
  #22  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
Damn... Well that sucks. If that is the case, then you will have to loosen the gas tank and move it.
Should the nut be on the outside? or should the nut be on the inside? I can cut the bolt and get it out...I have 2 new ones, but if I do that, I'm going to have to put the bolt in opposite of the way it's in there now....meaning that I have to put it in from the outside, and the nut will be between the bolt and gas tank. I can't imagine that this would make a difference, but If I don't do that, I will definitely have to remove the gas tank.
 

Last edited by rubeninfl; 05-07-2009 at 09:44 AM.
  #23  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:51 AM
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If the thread protrusion of the bolt would not hit anything I would cut the head of the bolt off to remove it and then reverse the installation.
 
  #24  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:58 AM
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Damn good idea. Get the new bolts first! Grade 8 only. Just measure up the originals and run down to your nearest farm supply store and they should have what you need.
 
  #25  
Old 05-07-2009, 12:59 PM
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Okay...on to the next problem. I've got the spring out....bolts out.. Now I've put the new spring in place. I was able to put in the front bolt....putting it in so the nut is on the gas tank side. Then I raised the rear end of the spring to put the rear bolt in and it comes up about 2 inches short of the holes lining up. This is the correct leaf spring because i lined it up with the old one and they are exactly the same size. Obviously the holes will line up once there's some tension and it stretches out a bit. Maybe I'm putting this back together incorrectly? I was going to put the front and end bolts in first...and then get to the U-bolts. Is this wrong? Do I have to do the u-bolts first? I have to be doing something wrong here.
 
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