need help with diff change
Did you upgrade gears and not the carrier?
I know carriers are series specific, like 2/3//4/5 series.
I know the carriers will not fit right if the gears are changed, being they are changed to a different ring gear size.
I know carriers are series specific, like 2/3//4/5 series.
I know the carriers will not fit right if the gears are changed, being they are changed to a different ring gear size.
Well, gear sets are gear *sets*. If the ring is changed, so should the pinion.
However, that is besides the point... We really need some more information on what you actually did before we can recommend any resolution. Did you swap out the gears? Swap out the carrier? Just pull things apart to see how it 'ticks'?
If you pulled it apart to change out the gears, have you established your backlash and proper shim pack thicknesses on both sides? The shim stacks may not be the same as they were originally with the old gears. There is a lot more to it as well and I will elaborate more if this is the case.
But again, we need to know what work was performed and what parts were changed out if any.
However, that is besides the point... We really need some more information on what you actually did before we can recommend any resolution. Did you swap out the gears? Swap out the carrier? Just pull things apart to see how it 'ticks'?
If you pulled it apart to change out the gears, have you established your backlash and proper shim pack thicknesses on both sides? The shim stacks may not be the same as they were originally with the old gears. There is a lot more to it as well and I will elaborate more if this is the case.
But again, we need to know what work was performed and what parts were changed out if any.
When you installed the new pinion, did you check for the appropriate shim height on the pinion shaft or did you just reuse the old shims from the original pinion? This really shouldn't be a problem, but I have to mention it.
Also, did you install new bearings and a new crush sleeve? You have to tighten down the yoke retaining nut to zero end play, then check the preload with an inch pound torque wrench. Preload should be at or below 2.7 - 3.6 Nm (20 - 32 inch lbs.) on new bearings, or within 1.0 - 1.4 Nm (8 - 12 inch lbs.) for used bearings.
From there you have to set the proper preload on the differential bearings. You then have to adjust the shim packs for the proper backlash. And last but not least, check for the appropriate contact pattern. This is a very simplistic run-down, but if you've done everything correct along the way, you should have a nicely centered contact patch.
Also, did you install new bearings and a new crush sleeve? You have to tighten down the yoke retaining nut to zero end play, then check the preload with an inch pound torque wrench. Preload should be at or below 2.7 - 3.6 Nm (20 - 32 inch lbs.) on new bearings, or within 1.0 - 1.4 Nm (8 - 12 inch lbs.) for used bearings.
From there you have to set the proper preload on the differential bearings. You then have to adjust the shim packs for the proper backlash. And last but not least, check for the appropriate contact pattern. This is a very simplistic run-down, but if you've done everything correct along the way, you should have a nicely centered contact patch.
I just wanted to let eveyone know how it worked out. I ended up putting a used rearend due to a mistake on my partI order the wrong size gears and waited to long to be able to send them back. I am going to just sell them because I really could not afford to keep driving my old chevy c20 it burns to much fuel going back and forth on the commute.
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Brianator99
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Aug 30, 2009 06:18 PM
DFEMS2
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