Hi All, I 'm a new member here. I have a 2002 Chevy blazer ls 4x4 4.3 v6. I noticed the steering wheel is at 11 o clock when driving straight and when up to speed(over30mph) I hear a noise from the front passenger side? I took off tire and noticed the tire has wear just on the inside? Both outer tie rod end boots just hanging there? A friend told me to jack the front up and move tire east and west and noticed a little play,then do the same north and south and there is play which means tie rod ends? I plan on replacing both the tie rod ends. ANY help or advice would be appreciated as this is my first time doing this repair!
Thanks,butcherbill

 

The north and south,movements could also be Ball joints and or hub bearings...

 

Hi, Thanks a lot! Are the upper and lower ball joints hard to replace? Is the wheel bearing hard to replace also? Any videos or how to replace them or advice you can share?
Thanks,butcherbill

 

well ya have a few options here for the ball joints:
First , it can be taken to a shop and have them do it with the proper tools but it could get pricey for them to do it.

Second: Get the proper tools needed and try it yourself and save on labor.

Third: Get a really big hammer beat the hell out of them to get them out, but putting them back in will be tricky to do it properly.There is actually a ball joint removal and replacement tool set for them. "Harbor freight sells them".

Hub Bearings:
On a 4x4 if you need to have the axles pressed out of the hub bearing then have a shop do it.
If you go that way for it, then have them do the rest while it`s all apart already. find out for sure whats bad in there and then get some estimates from a few places.. If you have to buy GOOD name brand parts yourself, save on the price that the shop will charge you, they will put your parts in, but not warranty the parts only their labor..Don`t use cheap brand Hub bearings, you`ll be sorry later on down the road when they go bad again.


There are plenty of wirte ups on both of these subjects . type ball joints in the search bar and then search for the Hub bearings.. you`ll se plenty of info.

Hope this helps ya out!

 

The front wheel bearings are an assembly that may or may not like to come out of the steering knuckle and may have the CV shaft 'glued' in place by rust depending on the condition. Nothing a 5-ton pulley puller and an air chisel can't get separated. Most get by with a 5-lb hammer & a block of wood to protect the end of the shaft to get the CV shaft freed up. If air tools are not at your disposal, you can get it done with a chisel & that same 5-lb hammer. Just takes a while.

There are a few how-to's for these repairs in the Tech Article (DIY) section and I'm sure even more youtube videos out there on each of them.

 

I just did ball joints, CV shafts and wheel bearings for my 1996 Sonoma 4x4 and there was no pressing involved in any of it. Go to zr2usa.com, suspension section (I think...doing this from memory ) and check out the sticky for replacing ball joints. Then decide if you want to try it yourself.

 

The worst part about ball joints is that they are riveted in. An air chisel does make short work of them though. The hubs are easy to remove with a three jaw puller. If this is your first time plan on taking some time. But you wil save literally hundreds of dollars. Get it alingned after the work.

 

Here's the ZR2USA link on ball joints (was posting from my phone earlier...). Watching a guy do it in his back yard inspired me. Rivets were the worst part, but the air chisel did work wonders. Only special tool I needed was a pickle fork.

 

If your suspension is that far gone, I would take it to an alignment shope and get a free inspection, I took mine to sears and they quoted me over $500 for the pitman arm, idler arm and control arm bushings. Took it home did all the work including ball joints, tie rods, shocks, and wheel hubs. Air hammers and impact tools are your friends but not required. My ball joints were not riveted so that made it easier, but still need a picklefork and a hammer to get them out. Wheel hubs took a hammer too (thats probably your noise). Ended up destroying a control arm in the press, so make sure you are careful. If you are getting tire wear on the inside your camber may be off too, so the bushings may need to be replaced, another good reason for the inspection. Either way you gotta get it aligned afterwards, better off paying a pro for that. Good luck brotha!