Hey guys.

I just changed my brake pads and rotors as they were getting really old. Put some EBC brakes on, but the pads are very tight, I've pushed the caliper all the way in, but they are still tight causing resistance as I drive.

Any help would be great.

 

This is usually caused by contaminated brake fluid and/or corrosion inside the caliper bores and pistons. Easiest way is to replace calipers. Otherwise you can rebuild them by cleaning them out and installing new rubber parts. Sometimes the piston will be damaged from corrosion.

 

Well it seems like the caliper completely retracted, there just didn't seem to be enough space for the pads.

 

if the caliper is all the way in it should be normal since the new pads are nice and thick unless they gave you the wrong pads

 

Ok, the only other thing I can think of is that EBC included these anti vibration pads that you sick on the back of the break pad. Might pull them off to get some more space.

 

thats possible i use the liquid stuff it works well it becomes like a rubber coat

 

Took off those anti vibration pads and everything fits great now.

 

When you squeezed the pistons back in, did you have the cap off brake fuild reservoir?
Did you bleed the brakes after installation of the new pads?

I use Permatex Ultra Slick Synthetic Brake Lubricant PN: 22063 & I've never had a problem with brakes squeeking, bolts sticking or problems with removal.
You use it on caliper pins, slides, clips, bushings, pistons, rubber sleeves & seals as well as the back of the brake pads.

 

I did take the reservoir cap off, I didn't bleed the brakes.

But everything fits nice now, just have to let the pads set into the new rotors.

 

Did or are you going to "marry" or "bed" the brakes?
I've always done this to get the pads & rotors 'familiar'.
This google search explains it pretty well:
You do not want to just torture the brakes by doing hard stops right away...that will wreck them for sure.

As long as the rotors are smooth and not gouged up they do not need to be turned...even the service manual says the same thing.


To bed the brakes PROPERLY....do 12 to 15 modertely hard stops, back-to-back from 35-40 MPH. The best thing is to just come almost to a stop and then release the brakes and accelerate back up to 35. You don't want to come to a complete stop each time and sit there with the brakes on. Do the 12-15 brake snubs like described from 35 each time. Stop at a moderately hard pace. Not squeeling the tires or locking anything up...just stop aggresively and firmly. After the brake snubs drive normally at moderate speeds to cool the brakes completely trying to stay off them as much as possible. After cooling down completely, do 12-15 more brake snubs the same way and drive and let them cool again. If you are doing this right you will smell hot brakes about the 10th snub and start to see some light wisps of smoke off the brakes on the last couple of snubs.

The whole goal here is to wear the pad into matching the profile of the rotor, heat up the pads to drive any contaminates or rosin out of the pads and deposit some of the pad material to the surface of the rotor. If you come to a complete stop with each brake snub and sit there holding the brakes the deposition of the pad material will not be even resulting in uneven brake feel.

The bedding or brake burnishing is a standard procedure on any new brake pads and/or freshly turned rotors to mate the pads to the rotors and seat them for maximum brake effectiveness. You definitely DO want to do this procedure if you put new pads onto used rotors to make sure the pad surface matches the rotor surface. This procedure is done before each set of OEM pads runs FMVSS certification tests to make sure that the pads are bedded in correctly before the brake validation tests are run.

You do NOT want to just go to 80 MPH and shower down on the brakes hard with new pads and rotors. Never do that. The pads do not match the surface shape of the rotor yet and, by pouring so much heat into them with a panic stop you will overheat the portions of the pad that are in contact with the rotor and crystallize the pad material and/or overheat the rotor surface causing uneven brake apply and roughness. Don't EVER take new brakes out and "try them out" with some panic stops or abuse them until you properly bed them in and let them cool the second time. If you do the bedding procedure with the two full snubbing sequences and coolings the brakes are ready to go onto the track from that point on.