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Pitman arm removal on zr2 will make me lose it

Old Mar 22, 2025 | 12:24 AM
  #1  
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Default Pitman arm removal on zr2 will make me lose it

So my mechanic told me that the idler arm and pitman arm needed replacing because my steering had too much play and you could straight up see the passenger side tire tilt outward a bit. However he went on vacation right as my blazer started vibrating down the highway. I decided to try and replace them myself.

I have an 05 Chevy Blazer ZR2. It's a 4WD. After much hammering with a pickle fork, the idler arm finally popped off the center link. I was getting hopeful...I quickly lost that hope. I removed the castle nut from the pitman arm just fine. I removed the gear box from the frame. No matter how much I hammer at the pitman arm, no matter which angle, no matter how much lubricant I use, that pitman arm won't budge. It's shockingly not rusted in. The shaft looks pretty clean.

I'm on a deadline so I cannot get my hands on an air hammer with a pickle fork attachment in time. I'm at my wits end here. I am a complete novice so I'd rather not try to remove the steering assembly altogether. I had the idea to try and remove the center link and just smack that off the pitman arm but the nuts that attach it to the tie rods are very rusted. I tried to impact one side off and almost stripped it so I decided to scrap that idea. I have no way of cutting off the pitman either. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm at my wits end here. I have one more day to try and replace this before I give up and wait for the mechanic to return. I'm gonna try and heat up the center link a bit to see if that little bit of expansion helps or potentially melts whatever gunk is holding it in and then I'm calling it quits.
 
Old Mar 22, 2025 | 12:17 PM
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Most people successfully removing the pitman arm from the steering box seem to cut a groove in it with an angle grinder or similar tool to loosen the grip on the splines. With a groove cut most of the way through the pitman arm ring, hopefully it will pop off for you.

Removing it from the center-link, I'd soak it with a good penetrating oil (not WD40), then heat it with a torch, and try smacking it with a pickle fork or a ball joint removal tool if you can fit one in there. If you can brace it against something, I've had good success smacking the side of the center link on the bulge where the bolt goes through with a hammer. If you have a helper, you can combine several efforts, such as putting pressure with a pickle fork while heating and beating on the center-link. Even just having a helper holding a large sledge against the opposite side while you smack the center-link can work. The shock will loosen the grip and help it pop out.

A combination of penetrating fluid, heat, and the hammer will get you there.
 
Old Mar 22, 2025 | 12:41 PM
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I've replaced both on my Blazer. I didn't use a pickle fork and instead used puller tools.

You can often rent or borrow these from autoparts stores. I chose to buy this set from HF: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ece-56807.html

BTW, while looking to buy just one of the tools in that kit, I found myself asking the parts guy at the local NAPA if it would be better to get the one tool from him that is probably better quality or get the whole kit from HF for the same price. He said that for a backyard mechanic, the HF ones would be fine and they have been.

If you look through my build thread you will likely find my writeups on doing these jobs using the puller tools.

Good luck and keep us posted.

P.S. One trick is to wack the centerlink or body into which the post goes with a hammer once the puller tool screw tightened. This is not akways needed though.
 

Last edited by christine_208; Mar 22, 2025 at 12:45 PM.
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