I just got done doing this over the weekend. For the torsion bars and the lower control arm I disconnected everything from the lower control arm. After that I just let it dangle straight down. Once it was at that point I was able to remove the bolt for the torsion bar key and pull the key right out. There was absolutely no tension on the torsion bar. Once I removed the bolts for the control arm itself I simply hit the control arm a few times to get the torsion bar out of it. This was completely safe. As far as getting the bushings out the lowers are easier. Simply drill holes with a small drill bit around the bushings. Then I used a ball joint press that I rented from autozone to push it out. Then I took a cold chisel and beat in the metal sleeve. All in all it took about an hour to get the bushings out. Make sure you mark everything so it all goes back correctly. The upper control arm bushings are a problem. When you look at them they have two different size caps. The larger one has to be removed. Take a pair of channel locks and some PB blaster. This takes some real patience. After that you have to trim the bushing with a utility knife... you'll see what I mean. Once all of that is done the process is the same as the lower bushings. I hope this helps you out.

 

Man Captain, if I only had that link about a month ago?!

I replaced the bushings and ball joints myself...never again. It took a few hours of drilling and heating one control arm to remove the bushings - not to mention the act of trying to press new ones back in! I ended up taking the arms to a local machine shop to have the other two removed and all new ones pressed in for me. So, for my time (which was sorta free), gas money and the machine shop fee I must have spent 70 bucks. And, that doesn't include the cost of the new bushings and ball joints.

And that's why I say never again.