Spark plug help!!!!!
#1
Spark plug help!!!!!
I'm having trouble changing the middle spark plug on the drivers side because I can't get to it I'm sure u guys have had the same problem what do I do thanks
#2
Use the search funtion....Its the#3 Plg and yes you will have to disconnect the steering linkage..I just did mine yesterday...bit of time but it all come apart nicely....
#3
Ahhh... the ol number 3 plug design has yet another fan. Actually, i just use a spark plug socket with a 3/4" hexed end and remove the rubber out of it. I then finagle it using a 3/4" wrench and some patience. Works every time.
#4
I use a long extension and go throught the wheel well. Can't remember if i use a swival or not. But I do not have to take the steering linkage apart
#5
Check the Tech Article (DIY) section. There is a VERY lengthy thread in there about this very topic.
And not all trucks require you to disconnect the steering shaft.
And not all trucks require you to disconnect the steering shaft.
#6
2000 gmc jimmy 4wd 4.3L vortec <---mine.
The third spark plug is a B****, I still remember the first time I did it. Oh man, my knuckles were busted up...
It's always that damn 3rd plug too that has some sort of issue so it NEEDS to be changed...
Don't be scared though. once you tough it out its not really that hard. jack your rig up, and block it and use stands for safety. take the tire off. rip that stupid mud guard or whatever that flap thing is outta there. stick your noggin in there and take a look at that 3rd plug... give it a mean growl... Now you can go buy a swivel socket which i have heard works real nice.... or you can find a wrench that fits it. yeah I said wrench. forget about your sockets for this one. your wrench has to be pretty short in length, and your going to have to use at at an angle so its not parallel with the plug. begin inching away at the plug, eventually it will become loose enough to hand turn.
install it the same way, hand tighten, and then use that wrench again.
there shouldn't be any need to take apart any steering assembly or anything.
if your not a poor college kid like me, then go buy a swivel extension and use it the same way through the wheel well.
The third spark plug is a B****, I still remember the first time I did it. Oh man, my knuckles were busted up...
It's always that damn 3rd plug too that has some sort of issue so it NEEDS to be changed...
Don't be scared though. once you tough it out its not really that hard. jack your rig up, and block it and use stands for safety. take the tire off. rip that stupid mud guard or whatever that flap thing is outta there. stick your noggin in there and take a look at that 3rd plug... give it a mean growl... Now you can go buy a swivel socket which i have heard works real nice.... or you can find a wrench that fits it. yeah I said wrench. forget about your sockets for this one. your wrench has to be pretty short in length, and your going to have to use at at an angle so its not parallel with the plug. begin inching away at the plug, eventually it will become loose enough to hand turn.
install it the same way, hand tighten, and then use that wrench again.
there shouldn't be any need to take apart any steering assembly or anything.
if your not a poor college kid like me, then go buy a swivel extension and use it the same way through the wheel well.
#7
I just did this the other day on my 99 Blazer 4.3 votec 2wd. The best way I found to do it was like everyone else said. Jack it up, take the two front tires off. GO in through the wheel wells. Now the number 3 plug I just took out the 3 bolts that mount the steering box on. The three bolts are on the frame in the driver's side wheel well. I dropped the steering box just a little bit. This made it possible for me to replace the #3 plug. It will still be tight but you can get it done.
142K miles on original plugs and wires. Couldn't believe it!
142K miles on original plugs and wires. Couldn't believe it!
#8
Guys, this is so easy if you just remove the steering column. Use a flat screwdriver to pop open the protective plastic guard over the rag joint, spin it around the column, and then remove it. Use a 10mm socket on the bolt that is on the column clamp, then pry (you should not have to pry hard at all) up on the steering column until it pops off the steering box. Lift the column out of the way and change the #3. The spine on the top of the steering box is keyed as well so you can't put the column back on incorrectly. Put the bolt back in and tighten it up. Put the plastic guard back on, spin it into place, and snap it shut. I swear if you try this once you will never use the custom socket/wrench/swivel/etc method again.
Oh, and this is for the S10 Blazers. I'm sure on full-sized you can sit in the engine compartment and change it.
Oh, and this is for the S10 Blazers. I'm sure on full-sized you can sit in the engine compartment and change it.
#9
I just jacked it up, took the tires off, then used a u joint on a ratchet. Its still hard o get out but the u joint makes it a hell of alot easier
#10
Really all i had to do was loosen it up with a wrench and go behind the shaft with a swivel bit and an extension. only place to find a cheap swivel bit is tractor supply.