Spark plug help!!!!!
#11
that damn spark plug i remeber that day i think i finnally took the motor mount out and lifted the engine up a few inches
#12
the best and easiest way i found to remove that plug was to remove the whole air box and tube than use a 5/8 spark plug socket with hex top for wrench and a 19mm wrench it was pretty easy and i had know problem working around the steering shaft.
#13
spark plug socket, swivel on socket, ext, mud flap, be careful.
#14
I actually even broke the top of the plug off, then I could get the socket on it to get it out. I do take the tire/wheel off. It makes it easier.
#15
I leave the wheels on, use a socket with a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter and a long extension. I am able to remove the plug going through the wheel well. No need to remove anything.
#16
Changin plug 3
1. Carefully break the insulator off the old plug. I went through the wheel well and used a long bar - just line it up and one quick tap should do it.
2. Use a standard 5/8" socket with a swivel, long extension, again through the wheel well, to extract the old plug. I only had a 1/2" drive swivel - kinda tight - use 3/8" if you have it.
3. Start the new plug by hand (I didn't say this was easy but can be done) and work it in as many turns as you can (I put a little lube on the threads first).
4. You must use a plug socket with flats on the end (see the pics). Based on how far you could turn in the new plug the socket must be modified for length. I ground mine to 2-3/8" but maybe 2-1/4" is best. This will allow for the socket to slip onto the plug in the space between it and the steering column.
5. I modified a 3/4" box end wrench to about 4-1/2 inches long (see pics). Reaching through the wheel well with some patience this wrench will easily trun the plug in the rest of the way (handle facing aft). When the plug bottoms out line up a bar through the engine bay and CAREFULLY tap to tighten the plug. DONE. Hope this helps someone out. Regards, Dave
#17
Breaking the insulator off of the plug can result in ceramic pieces getting into the cylinder. I have broken some plugs before and had the portion of the ceramic inside of the threaded steel housing basically explode throwing junk into the engine. I got lucky though as this was on an engine I was rebuilding.
#18
i also did it
it is so much easier getting it from the wheel well its pretty easy
#19
I just completed a tune up on my '03 Blazer. Read several posts in this forum and used some of the ideas and I wanted to post my help.
1. Carefully break the insulator off the old plug. I went through the wheel well and used a long bar - just line it up and one quick tap should do it.
2. Use a standard 5/8" socket with a swivel, long extension, again through the wheel well, to extract the old plug. I only had a 1/2" drive swivel - kinda tight - use 3/8" if you have it.
3. Start the new plug by hand (I didn't say this was easy but can be done) and work it in as many turns as you can (I put a little lube on the threads first).
4. You must use a plug socket with flats on the end (see the pics). Based on how far you could turn in the new plug the socket must be modified for length. I ground mine to 2-3/8" but maybe 2-1/4" is best. This will allow for the socket to slip onto the plug in the space between it and the steering column.
5. I modified a 3/4" box end wrench to about 4-1/2 inches long (see pics). Reaching through the wheel well with some patience this wrench will easily trun the plug in the rest of the way (handle facing aft). When the plug bottoms out line up a bar through the engine bay and CAREFULLY tap to tighten the plug. DONE. Hope this helps someone out. Regards, Dave
1. Carefully break the insulator off the old plug. I went through the wheel well and used a long bar - just line it up and one quick tap should do it.
2. Use a standard 5/8" socket with a swivel, long extension, again through the wheel well, to extract the old plug. I only had a 1/2" drive swivel - kinda tight - use 3/8" if you have it.
3. Start the new plug by hand (I didn't say this was easy but can be done) and work it in as many turns as you can (I put a little lube on the threads first).
4. You must use a plug socket with flats on the end (see the pics). Based on how far you could turn in the new plug the socket must be modified for length. I ground mine to 2-3/8" but maybe 2-1/4" is best. This will allow for the socket to slip onto the plug in the space between it and the steering column.
5. I modified a 3/4" box end wrench to about 4-1/2 inches long (see pics). Reaching through the wheel well with some patience this wrench will easily trun the plug in the rest of the way (handle facing aft). When the plug bottoms out line up a bar through the engine bay and CAREFULLY tap to tighten the plug. DONE. Hope this helps someone out. Regards, Dave
#20