Tie rod questions.
#1
Tie rod questions.
I've noticed over the past view days that when I'm driving and hit a patch of rough road that I start to get the " death wobble". So I did some research and found that one factor could be the tie rod ends. I'm getting ready to order some parts off rockauto and I'm wondering how I can find out if I need the sleeves or not? Also should I go ahead and get the pitman and idler arms also? I'm a diyer and would rather not order anything that isn't necessary if it's not an immediate threat, so to say. I am a knowledgeable when it comes to engine work but haven't don't hardly anything with the steering components. Any input or tricks to working on these components would be greatly appreciated. I have new ball joints and plan on replacing them, debating on doing that now to see if it fixes wobble but I know the tie rods need replacing. Thanks for your time
#2
The original idler arm design is known to be weak and wear out easily. If you do replace it, get either the one made by Moog or Proforged.
It is easy to check if some of these components are bad. Jack up the front of the vehicle to take the weight off the front tires. Then with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, try to move the tire back and forth.
If the idler arm is bad, you will see it move up and down a bit due to the pivot shaft bearing being bad. If a ball joint is bad on the tie-rod ends or at the ends of the idler arm or pitman arm, you will see motion of the components relative to the part to which they are attached due to the ball having room to move about in its socket.
To test the upper and lower ball joints, you would put your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and look and feel for motion along that axis of the steering knuckle relative to the upper and lower control arms.
Note that looseness felt for either the 3/9 or 6/12 test could also indicate a bad hub bearing. But in that case you would see motion of the wheel relative to the steering knuckle.
In short, looseness itself is not definitive. But you have to see where the parts are moving relative to each other to identify the bad joint.
Have you checked that your rag joint between the steering wheel shaft and the steering gear is not worn?
It is easy to check if some of these components are bad. Jack up the front of the vehicle to take the weight off the front tires. Then with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, try to move the tire back and forth.
If the idler arm is bad, you will see it move up and down a bit due to the pivot shaft bearing being bad. If a ball joint is bad on the tie-rod ends or at the ends of the idler arm or pitman arm, you will see motion of the components relative to the part to which they are attached due to the ball having room to move about in its socket.
To test the upper and lower ball joints, you would put your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and look and feel for motion along that axis of the steering knuckle relative to the upper and lower control arms.
Note that looseness felt for either the 3/9 or 6/12 test could also indicate a bad hub bearing. But in that case you would see motion of the wheel relative to the steering knuckle.
In short, looseness itself is not definitive. But you have to see where the parts are moving relative to each other to identify the bad joint.
Have you checked that your rag joint between the steering wheel shaft and the steering gear is not worn?
#3
The original idler arm design is known to be weak and wear out easily. If you do replace it, get either the one made by Moog or Proforged.
It is easy to check if some of these components are bad. Jack up the front of the vehicle to take the weight off the front tires. Then with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, try to move the tire back and forth.
If the idler arm is bad, you will see it move up and down a bit due to the pivot shaft bearing being bad. If a ball joint is bad on the tie-rod ends or at the ends of the idler arm or pitman arm, you will see motion of the components relative to the part to which they are attached due to the ball having room to move about in its socket.
To test the upper and lower ball joints, you would put your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and look and feel for motion along that axis of the steering knuckle relative to the upper and lower control arms.
Note that looseness felt for either the 3/9 or 6/12 test could also indicate a bad hub bearing. But in that case you would see motion of the wheel relative to the steering knuckle.
In short, looseness itself is not definitive. But you have to see where the parts are moving relative to each other to identify the bad joint.
Have you checked that your rag joint between the steering wheel shaft and the steering gear is not worn?
It is easy to check if some of these components are bad. Jack up the front of the vehicle to take the weight off the front tires. Then with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, try to move the tire back and forth.
If the idler arm is bad, you will see it move up and down a bit due to the pivot shaft bearing being bad. If a ball joint is bad on the tie-rod ends or at the ends of the idler arm or pitman arm, you will see motion of the components relative to the part to which they are attached due to the ball having room to move about in its socket.
To test the upper and lower ball joints, you would put your hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and look and feel for motion along that axis of the steering knuckle relative to the upper and lower control arms.
Note that looseness felt for either the 3/9 or 6/12 test could also indicate a bad hub bearing. But in that case you would see motion of the wheel relative to the steering knuckle.
In short, looseness itself is not definitive. But you have to see where the parts are moving relative to each other to identify the bad joint.
Have you checked that your rag joint between the steering wheel shaft and the steering gear is not worn?
#5
I've nevet needed to replace the sleeves, but I don't live where the salt the roads.
#6
Ok thanks Christine 208. Any tricks of the trade u might know. From doing the 3 n 9 and 12 n 6 tests it looks like I'm going to be doing the tie rods and both arms. Ball joints don't seem to bad but I bought the set so might as well do them also. I have a pickle fork and ball joint separator from harbor frieght. Besides a decent hammer is there anything else I should have or be ready to deal with besides the normal locked but or bolt? Again thanx for your time. It is greatly appreciated
#7
Ok thanks Christine 208. Any tricks of the trade u might know. From doing the 3 n 9 and 12 n 6 tests it looks like I'm going to be doing the tie rods and both arms. Ball joints don't seem to bad but I bought the set so might as well do them also. I have a pickle fork and ball joint separator from harbor frieght. Besides a decent hammer is there anything else I should have or be ready to deal with besides the normal locked but or bolt? Again thanx for your time. It is greatly appreciated
Good Luck
#8
Right on. And thanx again.
#10
getting the bolts out of the UCA was tough for me, you might need some extra tools https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...ictures-97791/
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