wanting 31s on a stock 98
Body lift is easy just a little time consuming. list of lift kits, most come with shocks https://blazerforum.com/forum/liftin...it-list-16186/
Beginning Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 30
I did the PA 2" body lift w/~31s(265/70/16). It is easy, but time consuming. I did it by myself on a Saturday.
Tires fill the gaps it will look good. Unless your speaking of the gap from the chassis to body. That is not bad either. It looks stupid with the lift and stock tires though. I think I have pictures I'll see if I can dig them up later.You may rub the back of the front fender while turning and hitting hard bumps like turning into lots. I smushed my fender back just a bit with a mallet and it doesn't hit any more even on hard hits. Also may have to space your front wheels out so you dont rub your chassis/sway bar while turning sharp. A lot of clearance problems depend on your wheel spacing. I notched my chassis and welded it back up(I wanted to keep my front wheels as far in as possible) to clear the tire and spaced out 5mm so I wouldn't hit the sway bar. If you use a spacer as well you will need longer studs. They are cheap and super easy to install and you dont need to remove the hub to do it. If you do an adapter you should prob go out at least 3/4" because you will turn into your chassis way before full lock. Just some things to think about...I thought it was just an easy body lift and tires, but it took a little extra tinkering to get it right. You'll see across the forum that even on identical builds you can run into clearance issues that the next guy may not have.
Tires fill the gaps it will look good. Unless your speaking of the gap from the chassis to body. That is not bad either. It looks stupid with the lift and stock tires though. I think I have pictures I'll see if I can dig them up later.You may rub the back of the front fender while turning and hitting hard bumps like turning into lots. I smushed my fender back just a bit with a mallet and it doesn't hit any more even on hard hits. Also may have to space your front wheels out so you dont rub your chassis/sway bar while turning sharp. A lot of clearance problems depend on your wheel spacing. I notched my chassis and welded it back up(I wanted to keep my front wheels as far in as possible) to clear the tire and spaced out 5mm so I wouldn't hit the sway bar. If you use a spacer as well you will need longer studs. They are cheap and super easy to install and you dont need to remove the hub to do it. If you do an adapter you should prob go out at least 3/4" because you will turn into your chassis way before full lock. Just some things to think about...I thought it was just an easy body lift and tires, but it took a little extra tinkering to get it right. You'll see across the forum that even on identical builds you can run into clearance issues that the next guy may not have.
Last edited by goldnugget; Dec 3, 2014 at 06:48 AM.