After weighing my front at 1640# on a truck scale, I bought the 47130 springs and installed them as-is (not cut). They are super soft and it doesn't take much to raise the front. Takes a bit of getting used to but they work. Suspension will come up against whatever suspension stops you have in place and stay there until you let off. Not recommended for the street.

 

Thanks, I really appreciate it...

 

It lives!!!! Taken right after I finished break in of new Crower solid lifter camshaft and adjusting carb. Idling at 1500 rpm. This one is quite a bit racier than my old cam. I wouldn't call it a lope, but it smooths out above 2000. It's 106 LCA running on a 102 Intake centerline with 70 degrees of overlap - I'm getting only 7.5" vacuum if I slow it down to 1000 rpm idle in park. At 1500 I get 12" vacuum and some power brakes. Fortunately torque converter is loose enough for pretty much any idle speed. Definitely not for the street. Now to put in my inner valve springs and readjust valves tomorrow. Note that I finally found a use for the old exhaust system I had on it before I went to fenderwell headers!

 

So made it down to an 11.04 ET @ 121 mph during cool weather and spent a lot of time on Friday Test N Tunes trying to tune. Then I decided to switch to a crank triggered ignition and got sidelined for quite some time trying to get it to work right with my Daytona Sensor's box - never did - always misfires at high RPM no matter what air gap I used between the trigger wheel and the sensor. I ultimately came to the conclusion that the FAST Inc. crank trigger that I bought used a sensor type that put out a waveform that was not really compatible with my ignition box (FAST Inc. unlike MSD and Moroso uses what amounts to a Ford cam position sensor). But not before kickbacks during starting took out my noisy, screetchy little Ebay mini-starter that would never shim correctly. So first I tried a factory starter. Too long - hit the frame. Then a Hitachi-style gear reduction mini starter (still 1/2" too long). Finally found a Denso-style gear reduction mini-starter with the clocking changed to one specific upside down position cleared everything and worked great with no shims at all.

So with starter fixed, I went back to using the distributor to trigger the ignition and now I'm full circle back to trying to tune myself into the 10's. But now weather is much warmer/humid and you don't make so much power. So last weekend best was 11.2@119mph. I've been telling myself I'll be into the 10's when the weather cools down, but turns out the race track sold and the new owners are supposed to close it early this year as soon as the points finals are done for major improvements. Word is that Terry McMillan (a top fuel driver who lives locally) and associates bought the track to conveniently test his race car and plans to raze everything and start from scratch. Should make for a very nice track if that happens. But that doesn't help me out this year!!! Well, maybe September will have a nice weekend where I can get to my goal!

 

Good luck!

 

Nice sound and clean looking engine bay.

Good luck with the tuning.

 

Thanks guys!

 

Looks like my 11.04 is my best for the year. Last weekend - 11.08/121 in good air.

Looks like I only got 20-25hp more out of the Crower 00307 solid lifter cam over my Comp XE274H, even after jacking with the tune all year. 60' is a few hundredths slower from 1.52 to 1.55 sec, but trap speed is up a couple of mph (the indication of the top end hp increase, and a little less power at 4000 rpm). Knocked around 1.5 tenths off my best 2018 time, but doesn't look like I'm going to make it to 10.99 this year. Maybe with some shock adjustment or even a different torque converter to keep the RPMs up a bit more I can improve the 60' enough to get to 10.99. Small improvements are costing a lot!

 

Nice run! Maybe some tweeking over the winter months will get you something... or a new Christmas present lol...

 

Thanks!

Unfortunately the only place to test in the Winter is on the dyno and it won't tell me anything about my 60'. Guess I can build some stops into my front control arms to limit upward travel and be prepared to adjust them. Maybe adjust my cheapo adjustable drag shocks or even buy some real double adjustable shock$$$$. That potentially should help keep the front tires just off the ground and keep me rolling through the light (instead of hopping out of it all of a sudden when the wheels come up). If the timer starts later, the ET will be quicker (all other things being equal). Also any lost motion upwards doesn't propel the car forward, so take the amount of energy required to get the front off the ground and push the car forward an additional amount with that same energy. At least that's my theory of how I might improve the 60'.

Only improvement I want for the engine this year is to go with a different crank trigger for my ignition box. I tried a FAST (brand) crank trigger, and it didn't play nice with my Daytona Sensors box. I gave up on it mid-Summer. Need to go to something like a MSD crank trigger, which is more expensive and requires re-alignment of my alternator and p/s pump with the crank pulley due to the thicker trigger wheel. Right now I'm back on my locked out billet distributor and the timing is not all that steady. I got a taste of steady timing with the FAST system. Only problem was misfire at high RPM which really sucks for a race car. But had amazing looking steady timing with a timing light when sitting in my garage! It's difficult to go back, knowing that precision in timing = a little power.