Well, I just got my new (to me) 98 Blazer, and took it to get inspected, since the tag expires today. Here are a list of the things I need, and whether they've been done or not (my buddy is doing the entire job, or at least as much as he can with the tools we have).

Front sway bar end links - both - DONE
Rear Brake Pads - both - DONE
Exhaust Studs - NOT DONE
Upper control arm bushing/kit - NOT DONE
Rear leaf spring shackles - NOT DONE
R/F Tire (not worried about it, I have a set of tires with less than 5k on them)
Both lower ball joints - NOT DONE
RF Upper Ball Joint - NOT DONE


Now, I took the truck to Pep Boys for inspection, mostly because I know they check everything. I got their quote for ****s and giggles and parts were about $325, with labor it came to $1600 (I LAUGHED MY *** OFF!).

Thus far my buddy and I have done the end links and the brakes, both relatively easy, but a word of advice to anyone who ever needs to replace those end links -- have a friend handy, cause it is a PAIN in the ****!

Does anyone have any advice for any of these jobs that could save me from major headaches? We plan on renting the tools for the ball joints, and I feel that telling you guys that my buddy is an ASE certified GM tech who is currently out of work.

Thanks for reading!

 

exhaust studs=lots of pb blaster
shackles= heat and pb blaster and a big breaker bar. use 1/2 socket wrench for this.

control arm bushings need pressed on. Do this,look on rockauto,they have complete control arms with new bushings and balljoint for like 65 each. boom. thats the elimination of getting tools etc and all drops in. 3 control arms is like 200 bucks + shipping,which is still less then going the other route. make sure you put the alignment spacersd back in and not mixing them up. you still need a alignment though.

 

Thanks for the advice! when we replaced the sway bar end links it was a total pain in the ***! mostly because I just dislocated my knee, and I had to practically hold a pushup on the breaker bar while my buddy put all the pieces into the setup...

We have a 2 foot breaker bar, and I'll make sure my buddy has the right sized socket.

For the ball joints we're going to rent the tool from autozone. I've priced out the remaining parts at $200 with discounts from autopartswarehouse.com (220 if the coupon code expires before I can get around to ordering them).

I intend to get an alignment the day after the repairs, as well as the inspection. (or as soon as I can)

Again thanks for the advice!

 

as far as the shackles go soak em in a good penetrating oil for a few days prior, get a big torque wrench or breaker bar and set the torque wrench to like 150lbs and just keep tension on the bolt while another person taps the other end. you can usually get the nut off, but if you can't you're gonna have to cut it off. keepin the tension on it and tapping it broke the rust bond it had formed to the inside sleeve of the bushing. oh and heat helps too. another pointer is take the back panel off and move the charcoal canister. makes life A HELL OF ALOT easier.

and i made a bushing press to get the new MOOG ones back in. 1/2" all thread, 2" pipe cap, some nuts and some fender washers. oil the eyelet and she went in pretty easy for me. i was lucky to only have to butcher the bottom one, not the one in the frame!

hope this helps

 

Just ordered new shackles, and a new upper control arm. Bought new ball joints at autozone. Looks like after all is said and done it will have been about $465 in work needing done to get her in legal shape. That would bring the total cost of the vehicle with tax, tags, and other bull**** to $2373. which I don't find to be THAT bad... for the amount of miles and the shape the drive train is in... I'm happy with it.

Now, once this is finally all done... on to spending money on things I WANT done... new wheels, runners, accents, etc..