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When I swapped to the ZR2 axle in my 4 door Blazer, I didn't need to change anything regarding the yoke or driveshaft length. It was a perfect fit on mine, but I have read that some other ZR2 axles use a different u-joint, so you may need to change out your u-joint for one that adapts between the two.
On that same swap, I went from drums to discs in the rear, and I didn't change out any other brake components other than the park-brake cables. My experience was that braking performance was increased by the swap from drums to discs. Do be really careful to not let the brake fluid reservoir run dry or you'll lockout your brakes. You may also need to rebuild one of the brake line supports. On the ZR2 axle I used the support for the driver side brake line was part of the axle adjustment bar that I did not use.
No pics but progress. Front diff is getting put back together. Just dropped off the iron case from a good rinse at the car wash. Thinking of painting it white before it goes under. Same as the rear axle.
On to waiting a little more... faster progress when I finally get a house lol.
So I didn't have to swap anything for the axle and diff to go in...
Having the lift, I do have to do the following:
- Install diff drop bracket, diff didn't dropped enough for the angle of the cv axles and they bind
- replace ebrake cable on drivers side. Cable gets snug when axle is flexed. Could be caused by the add a leaf with the extra 2" on the lift
I would double check with how much play you have, the yoke on the read diff is extended a little. A non lifted blazer would need to have a non balanced yoke, or the original one they had.
So did you go from 3.42 to 3.73 gears? I really noticed improved driving experience when I swapped in the ZR2 axle and went from 3.42 factory to the 3.73 gears in the ZR2 axles running 31" tires.
On that note, I'm running 32s (265/70/17) on my Sonoma now, and am kind of wishing I had 4.10 gears.
I miss the lost low end torque with the taller tires.
Last edited by El_Beautor; Aug 12, 2021 at 12:55 PM.