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I did it a few years back. The only thing I used was a c-clamp with the little disc removed to hold the key in place to remove the holder thing that keeps the key in its place in the cross member, if that makes any sense at all. You can rent the tool at AutoZone, well, for free actually. You crank down on the key until the holder is loose, remove the holder and lower the LCA all the way down (tire off of course), then loosen the c-clamp or tool until there is no tension on the tbar. Then you just back it out to the rear. Make sure you put marks on where the tbar fits in the LCA and the key.
I've never seen the tool you have posted, though. My tbars weren't stuck in there after there was no tension. Maybe if you are in winter salt areas you might have them stuck. If so, I would use some PB Blaster, or your choice of penetrant, and let is soak and do its job.
Thanks. Not much salt is used here so I'm guessing it won't be too bad then.
BTW the tool in the picture is one the Mopar people use. It clamps around the torsion bar providing a suface to hit with a hammer to help slide the t-bar back. I first saw pictures of these in the manual for the 71 Dodge Dart I had in college.
I may need to look into that tool if/when I need to change out bushings on the LCA. They use magnesium chloride on the highways out here, but not on the back roads. Only get on the hwy when we need to go down to Colo. Springs.