Not sure of the brand of a arm. Was told it was a "superlift" lift kit with tubular a arms. 16" rims and new tires will be for the next go around. Spacers are the budget for now... I can get about 1/2 turn out of the steering wheel right now w/o rubbing.

 

I can only guess that GM did not want to make a new axle for the Blazers and then worked with what they had and ended up making the front track width a bit larger than the back. I added spacers to the back to "square-up" the stance as others have reported that they thought it helped with the stability of the vehicle and also when towing. There is thread on BF.com that I started to ask if spacers are only for looks or not. LOL

So, I'd be inclined to add spacers so that the once installed, the track widths are very close to the same. The reason I did not add spacers to the front was that I did not want to modify things more than required, I did not want to add extra stress to the front suspension due to the tires being further out (I don't really have much justification for that), and it did not occur to me that adding spacers could give me that bit more room for my rims when the steering is hard over.

 

This is the lift kit that was made by Super Lift that I think they no longer make. If you upper control arms look like these, then they are super lift ones. At the time, I never considered that the RC ones would have less interference with the rims than the SL ones.

 

That's them...

Going to go get it now hopefully w/o having it towed...

 

Actually no the reason why is the wider track on the front it helps stabilize the steering and vehicle body roll. not sure about all but most vehicles esp. but with a higher stance are set up this way.
Old CJ Jeeps were prone to roll overs at mid to high speed turns by changing width differences it helped the problem

 

Well, there you go. Now I have a new topic to go research!

 

To quote Arte Johnson...."Verrrrrry Interesting..."

So if the designers/engineers figured a wider front track would add stability, would widening the back to match be better? Or is it some kind of mathematical-geometric-voodoo thing better left as is? Just trying to get to the bottom line here.

On a different note. Drove my rig home. The rims just rub a hair when fully turned to the right, on the right side. Nothing to the left or with the left rim. I had already moved the bracket holding the anti-lock brake cable on the drivers side when I was mocking up the factory rims with a tire profile. So there is a possibility that all I may have to do is move the bracket on the passenger side. The "mechanics" made it seem like it was a crisis and would straight line only. Snow and rain here so it will have to wait.

 

Is that all? Geez. Yeah I learned the hard way about routing my ABS wire. I managed to have the tire cut through it and had to solder it back together.

 

When I first started following this post I was under the impression that it was a constant rub when the wheel was turning - Oh well this a easier fix
You should have a corresponding scrape or scratch on the rim to what it is rubbing on to help you see what needs to be addressed. If nothing else when weather permits crank wheel tight and look under and see if you can see what it's contacting.

 

Yeah, I thought it was really bad from the sound of it until I drove it myself. I have always hesitated taking things to mechanics unless I absolutely cannot do it myself. In this case it was to simply flip flop rims...