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A/C Blower fuse keeps blowing

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  #11  
Old 12-17-2009, 04:00 AM
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Yep, it could be the resistor. Actually the low speed wire doesn't run through the b;ower switch. Iwould check this wire first. It's a brown wire. It splits off after the Control Selector Switch at Connector pin "B" and one brown wire goes to the blower switch and the other goes directly to pin "D" on the resistor. If you pull out the resistor you can probably see if it's smoked. Since all your other speeds are working, your relay is most likely OK. I'm looking at my factory wiring diagram and it's how I figured out all of the stuff that was wrong with mine. The smoke from the Selector Switch was a pretty good tipoff too.
 
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Old 12-17-2009, 07:31 AM
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Glad you've got most of it working. Looked at the wiring diagram for the system and believe your problem is either the resistor or the brown wire that goes from the Htr/AC Control Switch to the resistor. Although the blower switch has a spot labelled "Lo" there is no actual wire from the switch. The brown wire coming from the Control Switch at Connector pon "B" splits and the "Lo" speed goes directly to the resistor at Connector pin "D" (bypasses the blower switch) and the other part of the split goes to the blower switch to power "M1" and "M2" speeds through the resistor. "Hi" function is also controlled through the blower switch but enegizes the relay and then the red wire feeds the blower motor with no resistor to slow the speed. Sounds complicated but really it isn't if you have a diagram. When you said you only have no "Lo" it helped a lot. I think you have narrowed it down to either one wire (brown) and/or the resistor.
Sorry about the duplicate entry. For some reason the previous one didn't show up and I think you're real close to fixing the problem. I hope these help not confuse.
 

Last edited by Gimpy Blazer; 12-17-2009 at 07:36 AM. Reason: Duplicate entry
  #13  
Old 12-17-2010, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim-in-AZ
My 1991 S10 Blazer is doing the same thing.
I recently built a new engine for it and paid a guy to R&R the engine (I have a bad back and couldn't do it myself). Suffice it to say he was no where near the expert he claimed to be. I have had to continually redo parts of a proper engine R&R. The latest problem was the improper installation of the driver side exhaust manifold gaskets. At less than 3,000 miles the gasket burned through and I couldn't stand the ticking noise and it made my new engine sound like crap. So I had to pay a shop to replace the gaskets to the tune of 3.25 book hours, because the whole power steering assembly had to come off to get to it.
So I paid them, the engine sounded great again. As soon as I left the shop I went to a convenience store up the street. The entrance has a bump and when I hit it the 25 amp A/C fuse blew. I went to a auto parts store and bought fuses and put in a new one. It blew as soon as I turned on the A/C. I had to pick up my kids so I couldn't mess with it anymore. Later that night I replaced it again and this time it worked fine, until I closed my door at which time it blew again. I put in another and it blew immediately. I left it for the evening. The next day I put in a new fuse again. This time I didn't turn the A/C on till I was driving down the road. It came on and was working fine. I came to a stop light, it was still working fine, until I pressed the gas to take off from the light at which time the fuse blew again. I was pretty fed up by this time and took it back to the shop because this had never happened until I had them work on it. They ran around testing everything with a voltage tester and blowing multiple fuses. They told me it was the blower motor, because with it unplugged the A/C compressor would work fine, but the moment you plugged in the blower the fuse would blow.
So I went and bought a new blower motor and installed it. I put in a new fuse and backed out of my drive way with the a/c working and happy. That is untill I put it in drive and stepped on the gas, at which time the fuse blew again. I drove to the auto parts store and bought a new pack of fuses and I bought a new blower motor relay. Installed it and that didn't help as it blew the new fuse as soon as I turned on the a/c. Next I went inside and bought a new resistor pack and installed it. It still blows the fuse.
As you can see I have the same problem and I'm about to pull my hair out. It is November, but here in Tucson Az I still need my A/C because it is still in the upper 90's.
Please any new insight would be greatly appreciated.

Jim

Update to my 91 S10 blazer. It doesn't appear to be isolated to the blower motor. I had the blower motor unplugged and when I turned on the A/C switch it blows the 25 amp A/C fuse as well.

Please help us.
Thanks
Jim
I have basically the same problems and symptoms to where if I rev the engine too hard coming from a light, downshifting while going up a hill, etc the fuse blows. I've been dealing w/ this for probably the past 3yrs and never have found a fix. I've unplugged the compressor and condensor for the A/C so I can still use the heater in the winter time, but once the 100* summers come around in Boise, it sucks not having A/C. I've replaced the blower motor since one failed, but that's it. I've got all my fan speeds, so after reading this thread, I wonder what my next step should be...I'm not even sure of where Gimpy is referring to look.
 
  #14  
Old 07-11-2012, 04:47 PM
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Hello I stumbled across this forum looking for answers to my problems. My 1991 S 10 blazer with a 4.3l was having similar problems. The 25 amp fuse keep burning out and the fan would quit working. After reading the posts here, I had a good place to start. After replacing my noisy fan it still would blow fuses occasionally if the rpm's were increased or I hit a bump. That was when I figured it had to be a short so I bought a 25 amp breaker and had a friend install it wile I was looking under the hood by the heater box. That is when I noticed a puff of smoke and the breaker popped. I pulled the breaker and the negative battery cable. Eureka I found my problem. On the passenger side of the engine is a thick wiring loom. it travels along the valve cover when it gets to the end of the engine it turns and goes down the firewall. That is were the problem was the plastic loom was deteriorated and mostly gone and the wires were rubbing on the engine lifting eye. after repairing the wires that were damaged I bundled them in a piece of old radiator hose and zip tied it together. I replaced the breaker and the rig has not had any more trouble with fuses the A/C works and the fan runs great. I know the posts are old and this response may not help every one. But this thread helped me find a starting point and hopefully my post will help the next person find their problem quicker. The factory probably ran all the looms this way and thought the plastic looms would protect the wires, but with the age of these rigs and the heat of the engine the looms disappear and the wires are exposed in a spot that is hard to see let alone find.
 
  #15  
Old 08-30-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Flores
Hello I stumbled across this forum looking for answers to my problems. My 1991 S 10 blazer with a 4.3l was having similar problems. The 25 amp fuse keep burning out and the fan would quit working. After reading the posts here, I had a good place to start. After replacing my noisy fan it still would blow fuses occasionally if the rpm's were increased or I hit a bump. That was when I figured it had to be a short so I bought a 25 amp breaker and had a friend install it wile I was looking under the hood by the heater box. That is when I noticed a puff of smoke and the breaker popped. I pulled the breaker and the negative battery cable. Eureka I found my problem. On the passenger side of the engine is a thick wiring loom. it travels along the valve cover when it gets to the end of the engine it turns and goes down the firewall. That is were the problem was the plastic loom was deteriorated and mostly gone and the wires were rubbing on the engine lifting eye. after repairing the wires that were damaged I bundled them in a piece of old radiator hose and zip tied it together. I replaced the breaker and the rig has not had any more trouble with fuses the A/C works and the fan runs great. I know the posts are old and this response may not help every one. But this thread helped me find a starting point and hopefully my post will help the next person find their problem quicker. The factory probably ran all the looms this way and thought the plastic looms would protect the wires, but with the age of these rigs and the heat of the engine the looms disappear and the wires are exposed in a spot that is hard to see let alone find.
Thanks Flores, I had been struggling along with the A/C fuse blowing all summer, found your post and discovered I had the exact same issue in the exact same spot on my '91 Blazer 4.3L. Can't thank you enough, fixed the shorting wires, sliced a piece of heater hose down the side, wrapped it around the harness and shoved it down past the lifting eye & tie wrapped. Rolling now with COLD A/C!!!
 
  #16  
Old 08-31-2012, 03:33 PM
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I had a problem with the 4-pin connector that leads to the blower motor. If you trace the wiring towards the blower motor, just as it passes the engine block on the passenger side there is a pointless 4-pin connector. Mine LOOKED fine, but when I tried to take it apart it was melted through on the inside. I ended up cutting and splicing the wires, which has solved my problems entirely.

Although mine was an open circuit, not a short.... it was still happening from heat and could have easily been a short instead.
 
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