Compression fittings are just fine for your repair, as the pressure isn't higher than the rating of the average brass compression fitting. In fact, the rock auto "fuel line repair kit" will come with a compression fitting for connecting the repair line to the existing fuel line. I know this because I just replaced it myself. The other side of the repair line will thread right into the fuel filter, making this a very quick job. The compression fitting looks like below:
Amazon.com: Parker CPI 6-6 HBZ-B Brass Compression Tube Fitting, Union, 3/8" Tube OD: Industrial & Scientific
You place the nut and sleeve over the fuel line, then place it into the fitting, and then tighten. But not crazy tight, just enough to crimp the sleeve into place and seal the line. Repeat on the other side, check for leaks and tighten if needed.

Otherwise, you are correct that the other rock auto part is the rear line only. It will replace the fuel lines (both feed and return) from the tank to about the filter. The feed will thread into the filter, the return will have to use a compression fitting like above.

 

Amazon.com: Dorman 800-156 Fuel Line Repair Kit: Automotive

This is a better illustration of what comes in the Dorman repair kit. Although this is a kit for a different car, The rock auto kit you linked will come with the same type of parts (but of the right sizes). As you can see, one side is threaded and has an o-ring to mate with the fuel filter. The other side is cut to length and tied into the existing line using the supplied compression fitting (also pictured)

 

Ah perfect. I just ordered the repair kit since that seemed the quickest, cheapest and safest way to get the job done. I was wondering if I should buy a compression fitting separately. Thanks for clearing that up

What is the recommended way of cutting these lines? A manual hacksaw is a bit tedious, but I don't want to create sparks...

 

I'm having the exact same problem.

I like the quick connect nipples... So I could just cut the hard lines on both sides then put short rubber fuel lines on both sides of the hard lines then use clamps to hold the rubber fuel lines and the XC 90 fuel filter in place?

It would require some kind of brace or clamp to hold the fuel filter securely in place, wouldn't it, though?

 

Since I'm dealing with this now what size/type fittings should I look at if I want to simply replace/substitute another brand for the lines/filter. Mainly concerned about the connections on the back of the intake/nut kit. Local parts stores cant seem to match those up for me.

Thanks,

 

You should not modify either the fittings to the fuel pump or the intake/nut kit. Those are critcal and you shouldnt mess around with either end. They are hard to get to, and/or subject to vibration.
If you cant get new, get used in good shape.


For the filter, it's easy to do and to check on.

 

Thanks for the reply and I understand the importance of the soft line. Sorry I should rephrase my question. The entire power train 4.3 W, 4l60, 231C and wiring have been transplanted into a jeep. I understand how hard they are to get to which is why I cut the soft line when I pulled it, hindsight is a B.

I plan to use earls super flex hose and would like to transition off of the first set of soft lines, above the transfer case. The issue again is that nobody, locally so I'm dealing with AZ, advance Oreily and Napa can match the fittings/O-ring flare, both being different sizes makes that even more fun.

I spent 20 minutes on the phone with summit and they had no answer other than its metric. Dorman has a few help fittings that will work although Id simply like to replace the entire setup with the appropriate hard and soft lines in the correct places. This leads me to simply starting from the nut kit using the correct thread pitch, be it AN, SAE or NPT.

Thanks again.

 

Since I found this thread via search and hope that if others need the info they will as well. The fittings are 14mm and 16 mm. Earls part number 991955ERL and 991954ERL to aeroquip FBM1512 to earls super flex 3/8s fuel line. The first two fitting covert the MM out of the nut kit into AN -6 which is readily available. This may be somewhere on the boards although I couldn't find it or via a google search. You can use fitting like the Russell 640850 to connect to the 3/8s hard line if you end up needing to cut one.

Sorry for the thread hijack, seemed relevant to the topic

 

The repair kit (and a bunch of other stuff that I didn't really need, but ordered anyway ) arrived today (from RockAuto). Curiously the can of PB Blaster that I ordered from a Norwegian company has not yet arrived... What a world we live in.

Anyway, will head out now and see if I can get it to work. The kit seems complete, so shouldn't be a problem.

 

Well, that didn't take long. Stupid me did not think about the fact that the current fuel line has a lot of bends in it, and I will have to bend the line that comes with the kit to do the repair properly. Same applies for the other side of the filter, by the way (if you found this thread via search and want to do that - same kit can be used).

I - of course - did not buy a bender. This repair is starting to take quite some time.

Also the bracket that holds the filter came completely loose, there is no nut on the bolt that holds it there, so I'm gonna have to put in one.

Anyway, the line came off easily with a manual hacksaw, not tedious at all. No need for sparking power tools, then. The cut was a bit rough, though, so I'll touch it up with a file or something later.

I also looked over the kit, and it comes with the following:

- Steel repair line, straight 18" or so, flared in both ends. On one end is a nut with threads (to thread into filter)
- 2 O-rings
- 1 Compression fitting, olives are inside it

Not sure why there are two O-rings and both ends are flared. The compression fitting should not require that, only the filter end (right?). Or is the bundled compression fitting a flare fitting - meaning that I have to flare the lines as well? In that case I better get a flaring tool...


EDIT: Now that I have the old filter out in daylight and can get a good look at it, I see that I actually drilled quite far into the fuel line's threads when I drilled the filter nut to get WD-40 in there. So be very careful if you try that. And also, the threads do not go that far into the filter, at least on mine, so I should have drilled a bit further out from the filter (more towards the edge of the nut).