Let me know what you find behind the panels, loose connection etc.

The LED pilot lamp on the switch gets its voltage from the exact same place as the power wire going to the grid. If the LED is not lit, it's either burned out or the grid is not getting voltage. Do you hear the relay click when you select "ON"? (ignition must be ON)

 

yes i hear the relay click when i turn the switch on

yesterday iwas getting power every where now im getting nothing

makes me wanna go crazy

Imma go out and take the driver side panel off if the snow falls harder imma call it a night its also getting dark

Ok i got the driver side panel off I had to remove the whole rear panel since it was one piece

theres a 12 gauge wire going into a rubber hose and every thing looks good

nothing was ever touched in there

it had that weird rubber material from the factory
I was going to get the point of the test light and make a tiny hole to see if i got power but i came in to warm up a bit and to update what i found

 

Probing through the insulation is not such a hot idea. If moisture gets to the copper wire, it will corrode quite rapidly. Better to check resistance from each end of the wire. If it's bad, put in a whole new wire. I think I'd use 10 gauge

 

the wire i was talking about comes from the front to the rear of the truck

I really thinking the switch is the cause Imma test each wire on the switch see what happens


edit: this is the switch http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-BLAZER-IN...item415df387f7


Edit:2 I tested the wires on the switch i got one with direct power and out of 6 wires only 1 get power when the switch is on

 

From post #43.....
orange with black tracer should show battery voltage at all times.
Pink with black tracer should show battery voltage with ignition in RUN position.
The solid black wire should show less than 5 ohms to ground at all times.

If you only have voltage on one terminal, check the fuse and circuit breaker.

 

Ok i just came in for the night

I decided to play with the switch a little bit with the truck on

and the defrost led went on

I shook the switch a tad and it was going on and off the relay was clicking while i was moving it also

I think imma try to get a switch

Edit: I went outside and my mom tagged along I made her hold the test light on the driver side body wire and i played with the wires on the switch

turns out when i play with the wires the test light flickers on and off

Looks like imma need a new switch

 

OK, the switch should take care of the intermittent positive voltage to the grid, but there's still an issue with ground. Where the grid connects to the left, (ground) strut needs to be less than 5 ohms to ground. If it's higher, it will probably be easier to run a new 10 gauge wire with an eyelet soldered to the end and stick it under a bolt head or a sheet metal screw:

 

connecting the ground to the strut and it shows 5 ohms I will test it again tomorrow when i put my panel back on

I remember i was getting more then 12 volts going into the grid so the switch might of caused that


Edit: Ill update ya tomorrow on the ground

and i do really wanna thank you again for your time and patience with my stupidity

 

You need to understand how things work so you can figure out why they don't... You're the one fixing it, I'm just helping you understand it

 

agreed thank you once again =)