I'm sure this has been asked before, but I couldn't seem to find anything via the Search function. The A/C on my 1988 V-6 Blazer doesn't work. Having cut the roof off the truck I have no reason to repair it, so I'd like to lose it.

Where can I get instructions on removal of the whole system. I want to keep the heater running, but all the A/C componets: the compresser, evaporator, etc can all get the hell out.

-Jeff

 

I have never done that before, but I would just starting removing the suff and plug the holes in the fire wall has you go. I don't the A/C has anything to do with the heater, but I could be wrong. However what about your defroster, like when it's warm out and raining hard and you can't drop the top or even crack a window because you'll get soaked? I run into that problem alot in Houston, Hot outside and raining hard while the windshield fogs up.

 

The air and heat come together at the heater box so that flowing fan air can run hot or cold air through the duct system.

When you get done you'll find yourself with a huge box that has the fan located on it. The one for AC delete is much smaller. Or, in other words, the one supplied with a car without air is much smaller. This is so cause there is another coil (cold air source) in it. The ac delete will still have the proper places to hookup the wires and so on, but will only work for heat, defrost and venting purposes.

Junkyard may have one.

Its a wise idea to find this part and substitute it.


Other than that, you may wish to find an ac delete pulley. Takes the place of the huge compressor and keeps you normal in the belt department. Dont know if same belt actually works or not, but buy one for a car witout air. Some will work with same belt, others wont.

Some setups can be rerouted as far as the belt goes. You may be able to do that, but not if you dont have a good diagram on your engine compartment or a picture you took for that purpose. Waterpump has to turn in same direction. A shorter belt will take a trip or three to the parts house, trail and error, so to speak. I dont suggest this first cause folks have a hard time buying replacements later.

I'm sure that once you grab one end and start working you'll get the trash out. Watch out for wiring; even that associated with the air. Too many strange things can gom worn with wires so be sure to tape them off carefully and store them out of the way.

A note from someone that has done this. A new heater box with all the junk removed can be built using the old box and some flexible tubing to get a form of ducting back to the car. Cut it carefully if you wish to reuse it. Be very carefull screwing ANYTHING back to space on the firewall. The stock bolts are probably from the inside for a reason. Coming from out in the engine compartment and drilling or screwing self tapping screws INTO the firewall might get you a HEATER CORE with holes in it. Caution is advised.

 

With this old of a vehicle, first thing I would try would be to just remove the engine bay components. There has to be a belt routing for no A/C given that back in '88, A/C was still an option. So once the belt thing gets figured out, remove the compressor, condenser, filter/dryer and the lines and call it good enough. If you really want to rip into the dash (of two vehicles), you can replace your HVAC housing with only a normal HV housing, but it isn't necessary. I am confident that you can leave your dash intact with no adverse effects.

Even if you can not re-route the belt, the pulley on the A/C compressor rides on a bearing. If you unplug the compressor, it'll just spin with little to no additional resistance (about the same as an A/C delete pulley). Only savings would be in the 10-15lbs worth of compressor hanging off the motor.