Shouldn't be. You seem to take care of your truck better than a lot of people. I wouldn't worry too much.

 

If it is not broke don't fix it. Change your oil and filter and drive on.

 

Nah, I was just saying hang on to the luck you've got no big issues. 100K miles is no biggie. I just got mine straightened out again. I'm at 223K miles and she purrs again. Like they said. As long as you stay up on the maintenance and pay attention it'll last a long time.

 

I am just curious for those of you who have been there, done that with the 100,000 mile mark: How much should I expect to spend to have:

Cap/Rotor/Wires/Plugs (ALL except for plugs are original and I really don't want any surprises. Are there any related components I should be looking at or replacing at the same time?)
Fuel Pump (gauge is bad and since these things fail just after 100k, I am not going to take a risk. I don't think the fuel filter was changed regularly before 58k when I bought the truck. I did it often after that. )

Replaced?



With the Cap/rotor/wires/plugs is there a step by step guide online somewhere for doing that myself if it means saving money?
Does the entire distributor have to be replaced or is it just the parts on the top of the engine?

Also does Chevron Techron and Lucas fuel injector cleaners reduce the chance at having problems with the fuel injectors or the spider? Should I be using them often or not use them at all? I sometimes use both of those (Chevron every 3k, Lucas as needed), but not recently. Just curious. Thanks.

P.S. Someone else said earlier that I should have the water pump and timing chain replaced soon. I am at 210 or like one notch over that (if that) at idle sometimes and just below that at all other times. I just had the coolant changed in April, but there is some brown mud in the radiator again (there is Prestone in the cooling system now. There was DEXCOOL in it before). The rad cap is new. What about the timing chain? Should I be paying any attention to this individual or is that a bit extreme?

 

Your owners manual will have the scheduled maint listed inside by mileage. Most manufacturers list a timing belt/chain replacement between 90-105k these days. Also, if it hasnt already been done, swap the coolant to green. I always replace things well before they become an issue because when they do, they often take other parts out with it. Do the diff service front and rear, check trans fluid level, t-case fluid level, check the condition of all your suspension bushings, body mounts (especially with hard winters), exhaust system, brake and fluid lines. All those should at least be inspected.

Have a decent shop do a power balance test, compression check, and leakdown test if youre curious as to how your engine is doing as far as head gaskets and the like (I would just replace them, but it can be expensive if youre not doing it yourself). A timing chain should be considered as well as a water pump. Not too hard to accomplish in your garage. Check radiator hoses. Remove and clean the EGR valve and replace the gasket. Theres a ton of stuff that can and should be done. And if you do it all yourself, you can get away with it for about 400 dollars.

And about your ABS module: not sure if I mentioned this before in your brakes post, but an old timers trick to bleeding the ABS module is to find a gravel parking lot, haul *** and stomp on the brakes to cycle the ABS pump. This should send the air down into the brake lines, where you can easily bleed it out. It may take a few tries, but it works. Alternatively, you can try bleeding directly from the ABS system, though it can be tricky.