I would also go the extra step and buy some distilled water to mix with your AF.
Should be available at your local grocery, in the water aisle, sold by the gallon jug.
Where I work (oil and AF plant), the blenders use reverse osmosis water in their AF premix.
Dex Cool was generally introduced to GM cars and light trucks in 1996. This was touted as a long life i.e. 5 year or 100,000 mile coolant. Dex Cool was soon accused of causing a brown sludge in the cooling system. Some theories were it was not properly maintained. Others say it was mixed improperly with the old style 'green coolant' and that cause the sludge. Eventually there was a class action suit. If you have this brown sludge in your GM car or truck , use a flush like the Prestone flush. Flush it repeatedly and then use a 'new' Dex Cool version by Prestone or other major coolant manufacturer. That brown sludge is in not only the radiator, but the water pump. the reservoir, the heater core and hoses, the rad. hoses, the coolant passages in the engine block and anywhere the coolant has been pumped. Avoid the temptation to go back to the old green coolant because there could be remnants of the Dex Cool sludge lurking in the cooling system. You don't want to see the muddy brown sludge again. Right?
What was GM's response to the Dex Cool class action sludge issue? Some articles say the 'old GM aka prior to the GM bankruptcy' settled and paid up to $800.00. That may have paid for a new radiator and water pump, but what about those whose engines had intake manifolds gaskets destroyed by Dex Cool? GM 4.3L engine owners: does that sound familiar?
I did a flush like this about a month after I received the vehicle and started driving. My water pump malfunctioned back in October 2017 so I had to replace it. During that time I also flushed out the entire coolant line and brown sludge came out and also solidified pieces of what I believe is hardened coolant. I'm guessing the previous owner used the orange long lasting kind and never though to maintain it. I had to get a special kit to flush out the heater core because it was totally gummed-up.
Seems like I need to do it again cause I'm also slowly loosing water in my reservoir.
I was in a traffic jam the other day and I was able to get some live data fro fuel trim and my o2 sensors.
Stats at idel
While driving (don't remember what speed but I wasn't moving fast)
Then I have the readings for my o2 sensors. I don't remember when I captured these:
I also have this fuel trim reading that I don't remember when I capture it, but it seems really off
The thing that baffles me is that I'm not getting a reading form all my furl trim and o2 sensors. I don't know how many fuel trim sensors I should have. With the o2 sensors, I believe I have 4, but I'm only seeing 3 in my diagnosis being reported. I don't know if I have a malfunctioned 4th sensor or if the app on my phone isn't working right. I'm using Torque Lite with a OBDII bluetooth adapter and it doesn't always want to connect to the ECU. In fact, while driving, the live data completely freezes and I have to eject the ODBII adapter and reconnected it, but the graphs and display on the app always freeze again. I'm surprised it stayed working all through the traffic jam when I was running this.
You have three O2 sensors. One on each bank before the cat. Bank 1 sensor 1 is drivers side (#1 cylinder) and B2S1 is pass side. After the cat is either B1S2 or B1S3, that changed during the 2002 model year.
There are 4 fuel trims. STFT and LTFT for each bank. You add the STFT and LTFT together for a given bank being mindfull of sign (+/-). Single digits is good, double digits is trouble, >25 sets a code (absolute values).
Your MAF values look low. I'm with visiting family today but look for a rough idle thread where Les and I compared values.
06-19-2018, 06:06 PM
