Alright, I have a 2000 4wd Blazer. 1st off, when jacking her up, through me off that there isn't a front pumpkin?


Anyway, I just got my blazer on the road, and went to do brakes. It sounded horrendous. I bought new rotors all around, and pads all around. I took the front off first, the rotors were fine, so I replaced the pads. The rear, on the other hand, the passenger side was worn, the drivers side had the inside half the rotor missing.the connecting metal ground down to the outside part of the rotor. It was ridiculous. Anyway, I replaced the rear pads, rotors, and the caliper on the drivers side since it was blown out. put her all back together, and took her for a test drive. worlds of difference in the sound it makes. It sounds like a normal car. However, my rear brakes are getting really hot, where I can feel the heat coming off the rear rotors when I put my hand to the rim, the air flowing through is hot. I wasn't sude if it was just because they are new and the rotors are new or what, but it kind of sounded at first like they were scraping. It doesn't sound like that anymore, but they are getting how, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


The other question I had was the the way the brakes work seem very weird to me. There is the caliper frame, the brakes just sit in there, then the caliped goes on. I don't understand how there is not the clips on the brake shoes that go into the caliper like normal, and what is supposed to keep them from burning up just rubbing and grinding away. If anyone can explain it to me, I would really appreciate it.


Thanks in advance.

 

I wonder if you don't have a caliper dragging or possibly the rear flex hose has collapsed inside. The brakes are hot and the old rotor was worn away. I'd recheck the calipers. Put the rear end on jack stands and remove the wheels. Put it in neutral and apply the brake a few times. Now try to rotate the rotor. If they both seem to drag, your hose may be collapsed. Open the bleeder valve and see if it releases. If they now move freely, it's the hose or anothe rportion of the brake line. If one side rotates freely but the other one doesn't, such as the one that had a destroyed rotor, open the bleeder valve. If it still drags, that caliper is sticking.

 

Alright, I'll check them, but wouldn't I have seen that problem when I bled my brakes?

 

It could just be the p-brake shoes are not set correctly. What did the parking brake set up look like? Was there enough pad? On a '98 I also know there is a little part at the bottom of the parking brake set up that breaks and can come off very easily causing a misalignment that rubs on the inside of the hat. Jack up so both wheels are off the ground and turn them by hand. If they are binding or you hear a rubbing or scraping I would take a look at the parking brake set up. They will cause your wheels to get super hot.

Yes, you should have some received some clips with the pads. I've also seen just the pads for sale, but that's not the default. There is a big clip that go up in the center of the caliper and two clips that the ends of the pads ride on. The pads should have a bent piece of metal attached to the back of them that is your worn pad sensor (or as I like to call them...the embarrassment screamer) When I do rear brakes I feel I should not only change the clips, but also replace the p-brake hardware (unless the hardware is in spectacular condition. There is that piece that will break like I stated. One way to notice this is if the shoes are lower than center and you can actually pick up on them. Basically, if you really had to maneuver and line up the p-brake shoes to put the rotor back on, that part is probably broken.

 

A collapsed hose will allow pressure through but your brakes don't have a return pressure. Bleeding them seems normal. If they are dragging and release when you open the bleeder, you let the pressure off the caliper.

 

Gotcha, and I see bout the clips and stuff. It was hard to know what they were since the olds ones had nothing like them on... Thanks

 

Ok, finally on days off again. Bought the clips that should be everything for the brakes. They were easy enough to install. Had to change my other rear caliper because apparently it was sticking a little. in 6 days the outer pad was half way gone. Guess that was what caused my mileage to drop from 15 mpg to 12 mpg.


I also changed my bad 02 sensor and replaced the air filter, thought I did the air filter when I got the blazer, guess I didn't.


Anyway, If any other issues arise, I'll post them here, but all in all, it seems the blazer isn't doing to bad, just doing some maintenance that has been neglected prior.

 

My 2cents.. be wary of re-manufactured calipers. I got 2 and both have been problems. Rust, corrosion, scales whatever you call it built up under the clips and pinched the pads on one and the other one the bleeder threads are flaky and bleeder screw doesn't even seat correctly unless you 'finagle' it just right.