2005 Blazer 4wd Drive Train Shutter while in OD
#1
2005 Blazer 4wd Drive Train Shutter while in OD
Hi
I lost my last post but wanted to post my experience to help others.
Previous post: https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...-blazer-83027/
2005 blazer 128,000 km - 4wd
Issue:
Driving over 75 km/hr causes drivetrain shutter felt in seat of pants and intermittent "screech" aka metal on metal sound
Awesome Link:
FYI 4L60E common problems / failures | GM Truck Headquarters
Most likely diagnosis:
25. Torque converter shudder in 4th while lockup is engaged; problem goes away when the brake pedal is pressed slightly to unlock converter. Have a shop verify line pressure, and provided no valves in the TCC hydraulic circuit are worn, replace the torque converter. Also, Lubegard Shudder Fix will at least fix this for awhile. Or try a transmission flush by a shop that uses BG brand products.
Diagnosis:
1 - balance all tires
2 - go to tranny expert and drive with snapon $2000 tool hooked up to watch driving conditions
- Truck warmed up
- drive to 80 km, he says converter just locked up. truck shutters and I hear a grind but mechanic doesn't
- reproduce shutter again by varying gas pedal in that range, get it to shutter , slowly hit breaks as suggested
- as brakes are hit rpm climb shutter stops
- slow down turn around
- get up to speed converter locks
- shutter occurs shortly there after
- grind sound occurs metal on metal for brief 1 second
- grind goes away I hit brakes and shutter goes away rpm climbs
- pull off go back to shop
2 choices I have
1 - replace converter - mechanic says" but don't be mad at me if tranny does something and you are mad at me saying why didn't we fix it right and make this tranny proper" ???
truth in this statement
Or is it really just the converter from that standpoint?
------------------------------------------
comments?
I lost my last post but wanted to post my experience to help others.
Previous post: https://blazerforum.com/forum/steeri...-blazer-83027/
2005 blazer 128,000 km - 4wd
Issue:
Driving over 75 km/hr causes drivetrain shutter felt in seat of pants and intermittent "screech" aka metal on metal sound
Awesome Link:
FYI 4L60E common problems / failures | GM Truck Headquarters
Most likely diagnosis:
25. Torque converter shudder in 4th while lockup is engaged; problem goes away when the brake pedal is pressed slightly to unlock converter. Have a shop verify line pressure, and provided no valves in the TCC hydraulic circuit are worn, replace the torque converter. Also, Lubegard Shudder Fix will at least fix this for awhile. Or try a transmission flush by a shop that uses BG brand products.
Diagnosis:
1 - balance all tires
2 - go to tranny expert and drive with snapon $2000 tool hooked up to watch driving conditions
- Truck warmed up
- drive to 80 km, he says converter just locked up. truck shutters and I hear a grind but mechanic doesn't
- reproduce shutter again by varying gas pedal in that range, get it to shutter , slowly hit breaks as suggested
- as brakes are hit rpm climb shutter stops
- slow down turn around
- get up to speed converter locks
- shutter occurs shortly there after
- grind sound occurs metal on metal for brief 1 second
- grind goes away I hit brakes and shutter goes away rpm climbs
- pull off go back to shop
2 choices I have
1 - replace converter - mechanic says" but don't be mad at me if tranny does something and you are mad at me saying why didn't we fix it right and make this tranny proper" ???
truth in this statement
Or is it really just the converter from that standpoint?
------------------------------------------
comments?
#2
Well, from what I know , I would say yes torque convertor!!!!! But metal to metal sound is never good!!!!! I'm sure there are shavings through out your transmission at this point! Which tells me it should be pulled & cleaned out at minimum and of course at this point you'd be foolish to not have him go through it and rebuild it. This is just from personal experience with a similar situation I went through surely others will be along shortly chiming in.
#3
the torque converter clutch is probably worn, maybe due to a bad TCC solenoid or not. I'd replace that as well. The trans needs to be flushed to get all the clutch matierial out of it. And with any high mileage trans that may cause problems. I say disable the TCC and drive it till it quits and rebuild it later or just shell the money and have a rebuild now.
#4
Thanks everyone.
I'm going for another second opinion in two days on Monday with another mechanic.
I was quoted $2900 taxes in for rebuilding the tranny.
Would like your opinion on these other ideas people have suggested:
1- Autowreckers buy and pay for someone to install
My thoughts: If I'm keeping the truck then this is a risk too that when it goes in, it doesn't work. I don't believe there is a warranty.
2 - Buy from an online supplier who warranties the tranny for a year or more - get it delivered and have it installed.
3 - Are these tranny's not available online brand new for a reasonable price?
The tranny does everything perfectly, I have no issues with it except for after converter locks up.
Honestly can one squeeze in the converter without having to fully remove the tranny?
Thanks guys.
I'm going for another second opinion in two days on Monday with another mechanic.
I was quoted $2900 taxes in for rebuilding the tranny.
Would like your opinion on these other ideas people have suggested:
1- Autowreckers buy and pay for someone to install
My thoughts: If I'm keeping the truck then this is a risk too that when it goes in, it doesn't work. I don't believe there is a warranty.
2 - Buy from an online supplier who warranties the tranny for a year or more - get it delivered and have it installed.
3 - Are these tranny's not available online brand new for a reasonable price?
The tranny does everything perfectly, I have no issues with it except for after converter locks up.
Honestly can one squeeze in the converter without having to fully remove the tranny?
Thanks guys.
#5
Thanks everyone.
I'm going for another second opinion in two days on Monday with another mechanic.
I was quoted $2900 taxes in for rebuilding the tranny.
Would like your opinion on these other ideas people have suggested:
1- Autowreckers buy and pay for someone to install
My thoughts: If I'm keeping the truck then this is a risk too that when it goes in, it doesn't work. I don't believe there is a warranty.
2 - Buy from an online supplier who warranties the tranny for a year or more - get it delivered and have it installed.
3 - Are these tranny's not available online brand new for a reasonable price?
The tranny does everything perfectly, I have no issues with it except for after converter locks up.
Honestly can one squeeze in the converter without having to fully remove the tranny?
Thanks guys.
I'm going for another second opinion in two days on Monday with another mechanic.
I was quoted $2900 taxes in for rebuilding the tranny.
Would like your opinion on these other ideas people have suggested:
1- Autowreckers buy and pay for someone to install
My thoughts: If I'm keeping the truck then this is a risk too that when it goes in, it doesn't work. I don't believe there is a warranty.
2 - Buy from an online supplier who warranties the tranny for a year or more - get it delivered and have it installed.
3 - Are these tranny's not available online brand new for a reasonable price?
The tranny does everything perfectly, I have no issues with it except for after converter locks up.
Honestly can one squeeze in the converter without having to fully remove the tranny?
Thanks guys.
#7
I've been doing some searching on ebay and online, it appears you can buy the transmission out right for $600-$1300.
What is labour time on a tranny install? R&R 12 hours?
Also does it matter if the 4l60E tranny came from another vehicle instead of born from a Blazer?
I just did a quick search on the value of my truck and holy crap it's about $5k with my mileage! that's it!
What is labour time on a tranny install? R&R 12 hours?
Also does it matter if the 4l60E tranny came from another vehicle instead of born from a Blazer?
I just did a quick search on the value of my truck and holy crap it's about $5k with my mileage! that's it!
#8
Went for a long road trip with another mechanic today, he ran the scantool like the other tech did and found converter slipping and misfires in the engine. I haven't done a tune up since owning it. It does run rough. Only code on tool was P0496 I believe. Evap something.
He diagnosed it down to engine or tranny and felt the metal sound was internals in the CAT CONVERTER? We banged it with a hammer but haven't gone on another drive.
He was also able to toggle on/off something in the tranny (tcc) to reproduce the problem but it didn't immediately happen making it a clear cut diagnosis.
He recommended a tune up to start and fix the code problem then test drive to see if it happens again. He said any tranny problem looked at should ensure the engine is ruled out first.
the cats wasn't loose and the grind noise happens only once in awhile up in that 75-100km range.
So I'm a bit perplexed and have another appointment at another shop in two days.
Could it really be sparkplugs,wires and rotor potentially causing this shutter? Truck makes power so we know cats aren't clogged.
He diagnosed it down to engine or tranny and felt the metal sound was internals in the CAT CONVERTER? We banged it with a hammer but haven't gone on another drive.
He was also able to toggle on/off something in the tranny (tcc) to reproduce the problem but it didn't immediately happen making it a clear cut diagnosis.
He recommended a tune up to start and fix the code problem then test drive to see if it happens again. He said any tranny problem looked at should ensure the engine is ruled out first.
the cats wasn't loose and the grind noise happens only once in awhile up in that 75-100km range.
So I'm a bit perplexed and have another appointment at another shop in two days.
Could it really be sparkplugs,wires and rotor potentially causing this shutter? Truck makes power so we know cats aren't clogged.
#9
Update
Hi everyone,
I'm back after leaving the city for a 6 weeks.
Just wanted to update people on what my plan of attack is:
1 - replace purge valve solenoid at intake manifold - clear code p0496
2 - change all wires
3 - change all plugs
4 - change fuel filter
This means I will haven completed a full tune up on engine.
After this I'm hoping the following doesn't occur which is an accurate representation of what is happening now:
1 - Drive up to 70-90 km and after TC lock up some of the time I then hear a metal on metal noise
2 - After hearing the noise once if I stay in that range every now and then a drivetrain vibration occurs for 1 second.
Notes: The last mechanic and I went up and down the highway and he triggered the lock up on and off multiple times and it didn't happen every time he did it, you could clearly see the rpm drop when he enabled it.
The tranny is flawless with shifting and driving, you would never know anything is wrong.
Right now I'm just driving it around trying to stay under 70km.
Q: If I drive it "3" can avoid it doing the metal on metal thing? Is there anything wrong with that?
Q: So you know in Canada two shops say R&R and rebuild tranny with all the updates and a 2 year warranty is $2800-$3000. Truck is worth $5k. Two shops have said to install a torque converter is $1000.
I'm back after leaving the city for a 6 weeks.
Just wanted to update people on what my plan of attack is:
1 - replace purge valve solenoid at intake manifold - clear code p0496
2 - change all wires
3 - change all plugs
4 - change fuel filter
This means I will haven completed a full tune up on engine.
After this I'm hoping the following doesn't occur which is an accurate representation of what is happening now:
1 - Drive up to 70-90 km and after TC lock up some of the time I then hear a metal on metal noise
2 - After hearing the noise once if I stay in that range every now and then a drivetrain vibration occurs for 1 second.
Notes: The last mechanic and I went up and down the highway and he triggered the lock up on and off multiple times and it didn't happen every time he did it, you could clearly see the rpm drop when he enabled it.
The tranny is flawless with shifting and driving, you would never know anything is wrong.
Right now I'm just driving it around trying to stay under 70km.
Q: If I drive it "3" can avoid it doing the metal on metal thing? Is there anything wrong with that?
Q: So you know in Canada two shops say R&R and rebuild tranny with all the updates and a 2 year warranty is $2800-$3000. Truck is worth $5k. Two shops have said to install a torque converter is $1000.
#10
i just had one rebuilt with a 1 year warrenty for 1500. Thats new torque converter as well as they dropped it and installed it. That was on a 96 ZR2 4x4. But i'm not in Canada so idk but double seems pretty steep. I see the 1 extra year warrenty but usually if a rebuild is bad it will go out well before the 1 year mark if driven regularly