Gosh, I may well book a weekend trip to USA and book it in on a Saturday at a shop across the border that's warranty extends across Canada and USA. Never even thought of that! I will keep this in mind, was hoping Captain Hook may chime in.

 

The tech that told you to make sure the engine is running right before trying to diagnose a transmission problem is correct. Not very many trans shops will tell you that. Usually they tell you straight up "needs an overhaul". If you feed the trans a rough power input, you're going to get a rough power output. Much like a computer, junk in, junk out.

Start with a good quality tune up. AC Delco 41-993 plugs, good quality wires, AC Delco, Autolite Professional series, or Belden, (not some el cheapo store brand). AC Delco distributor cap & rotor along with a good quality fuel filter. Check fuel pressure and leakdown, and camshaft retard, all three must be within spec. Have that same technician check camshaft retard for you on his high dollar scan tool.

 

Thanks Captain Hook(CH).
I've been to 2 tranny places, first one was a one man shop and was honest and said you need converter it's a $1000 but I'm gonna be honest and tell you you'd be mad if I did just the converter and in several weeks tranny acted up and you had to rebuild it. I'm not gonna lie and say I wouldn't make more money rebuilding it but it's up to you decide if you want to keep the vehicle or not. (LARRY)


He said he saw converter slippage and the metal noise was a clutch(don't quote me) and that pressing on the brake stops the shutter.


It was a short drive. Letting of the gas would of stopped the shutter so pressing the brake isn't a valid test in my opinion since its a such a short shutter. Also FYI-> ( no OBD2 tranny codes were present )


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[2nd opinion]


Went to a one man shop who works on fleet vehicles and customer rides in his extra time. (RUSS)


He spent the longest time with me on the highway with same scantool(snap-on) and first came to the same conclusion about torque converter slippage but not fully nor any conversation about his exact diagnosis yet.


He then checked out the engine counters and did the misfire test ? (that 1000 fires thingy test) and said he say misfires on various cylinders. He said generally these 4.3L are very very SMOOTH and mine was rough at idle.


He then dropped me off, charged me nothing, and said Kyle you should clear the check engine light and tune up the vehicle and we will re-road test it.


----------------
[3rd opinion]
Went to 4 bay transmission shop I heard good things about to check on prices, confirmed $1000 tc R&R, $2800 full rebuild 2 yr warranty, Same as LARRY, dropped by and spoke to service manager and he said I've done a great job of looking into this and offered a mechanical shop to tune up and resolve check engine light and diagnose drivetrain shutter and grinding noise.

------------
I don't want to pay for tune up or check engine light repair as I can attempt this myself with the help of the forum.

So it's raining today but I have all the parts for the tune up and will provide a detailed reply once I get these darn plugs in and new wires.(I've watched you tube videos)

I can't figure out how to take the wire holders off though. So stupid but the room to work is soo limited in there!

Can you help me on that?


Also any special tips on removing fuel filter?


Hopefully it stops raining soon!

 

Interesting, good job doing your homework! Plugs are easiest if you jack up the front wheels and work through the wheel well. #3 plug is a PITA, (driver side middle plug). I find it easiest to take the steering shaft off of the steering gear and swing it out of the way. Don't move the steering wheel or tires while the shaft is disconnected. Fuel filter requires a 16mm line wrench and either a 19mm or 20mm open end wrench to hold the filter, cant remember which one The plug wire retainers are one piece plastic. Release the tab with a small flat blade screwdriver and open it up. It "hinges" open to access the wires, don't need to remove the retainer from the metal bracket. Do the plug wires one at a time, don't mess 'em up When you're done, have "Russ" check camshaft retard with his scan tool. If you need info on that, let me know.

 

Thanks, the tranny shifts perfectly so it's so hard to believe it's the tranny but I did tow a uhaul trailer 1025 km over the mountains last year from the bumper. That's probably what did it but the fluid doesn't smell burnt at all. At least the truck made it back another 1025 km home without it breaking down. So that part is good!

Just went outside and tried to get those damn spark plug tabs things off, I see how if you squeeze the once side it will come out. there is no room to get any leverage to do this or hold one side while pushing the clip in. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

I'll try a plumbers wrench and see if can squeeze it or something! Once I get it I'll be happy! If I can do brakes and I do a plastic clip!

It's a good thing I know how to TDC and firing order and all that jazz I could rip all the wires off, spin the engine and get it run again! I won't do that and will just do one wire at a time!

I got the airfilter ready to install so that is ready!

thanks for tip on fuel filter, perfect I know what tools I need!

PS I saw on a utube video you can turn the steering wheel and the shaft has a flat side to that can't be seen due to the protective cover on it. So if both wheels are jacked up you can almost get the extension into the socket fully but it grabs just enough to loosen it. I'm crossing fingers this will work, I also heard you can put socket on plug and then use a WRENCH on the end of the socket to start it that way without a universal and extension!

Can't wait to finish this!
I've come to the conclusion the plastic clips won't come off from above, I must do it at from the wheel well with tire off.

Ok good weather please come soon!

 

The plug wire retainers have a "latch" that you need to release, then it will hinge open to remove the wires from it. Not much room to get at them, and it usually requires a few "choice words" before they open up. If you can get one of them off and study it, then you'll understand what you've got to do without seeing it LOL.

On the #3 PITA plug, do whatever works best for you. If you decide to pull the shaft, you need to remove the black plastic cover to expose the bolt on the rag joint. Then you can turn the shaft so the bolt faces up. One bolt, and a pry bar slides the joint right off the gear box.

On the fuel filter, sometimes the steel line will rust to the flare fitting. If so, hold the fitting with the line wrench and unscrew the filter with the open end wrench. If you try to turn the fitting, a lot of times it will twist the line and break it off. Then you've got another PITA problem to deal with. Originally, the filter is mounted in a black plastic bracket that bolts to the frame, take the bolt out, 13mm. On top of the bracket are some steel lines, brake, EVAP etc, carefully push them upward and out of the bracket, make sure you whisper a prayer that they don't start leaking or, you guessed it, another PITA to deal with.

 

Update:

Ok, tune update(passenger side)

Clips - > I hate them, I totally see what how they are suppose to work, at least one of them actually points the clip part UPWARDS!!!

The #6 plug holder faces the firewall, thanks GM.

So my tip is this, just ram your screw driver from the top down and pry up, don't come from the side like it was designed. That was the only way I could get #6 off that POINTS to firewall - A FEW CHOICE WORDS I SAY!

Anyway the plugs themselves were fairly easy to take off! Yes!!!

I used NGK wires and spark plugs - Very good quality
I used acdelco cap and rotor - installed both already
I used fram air fliter

I have completed the passenger side install of plugs and wires!

tomorrow I'll tackle the hard drivers side!

And if there is time the fuel filter.

 

Good job, but don't hold your breath on the NGK plugs. You do know what NGK stands for don't you? No Good Kind

 

Ah crap, it's just what the parts guy brought out, I should of asked for AC DELCO, ah well as the old stickers in 1969 said, "replace with only genuine GM parts" still applies, LOL. I run the NGK plugs in my 69 - 400 Pontiac engine, they seem good?

They should still work for at least 70k, that'll put my truck at 200k and by then it'll be time to sell I assume. I made sure to put the Dielectric grease on boot and spark plug too.

I strive for perfection and hate it when I come short!!!

 

See post #12.

Sorry, forgot to mention, put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out, of the cap. It reduces corrosion on the terminals. Aluminum corrodes, even faster when you send electricity through it.