That's the program, the telescoping joint is probably stiff. Either a big flat blade screwdriver and pry it back, or you can try tapping with a small hammer to help slide it off the input shaft, it'll go.

 

Ok awesome, I'll head out now and put the truck back down on the wheel and give it a go. I see the flat spot on top of the input shaft so I know that input shaft can't turn around or anything. I think I can do it.


Gosh what is simple for the mechanic is a challenge for the hobbyist! I'm getting better!! Thanks!!! I'll report back in a moment!

 

Oh my gosh you are not going to believe this, because I didn't fully remove the PLASTIC COVER IT stopped it from coming out, as soon as I removed that !! EASY AS PIE.


I made a mistake and put it back in(bolt) and then plastic piece wouldn't go back in! So I took bolt out and lifted shaft then placed plastic piece in place and boom everything back together.


Plugged in new spark plug through wheel well. Fired it up, one thing I notice is with putting my hand on top of efi(aka carb- heck if I know what the unit is now called - throttle body?)you can feel it misfire. It's not smooth as silk as I understand it should be. So I think we're still dealing with misfire.


So onto fuel filter soon, I heard there is a blast of cold coming again!


THANK YOU CH!

 

Guess I should have explained that, sorry. Good job though, you figured it out! Once you've changed #3 plug using that method, you'll always do it that way, simple. No bleeding knuckles, no contorsionism, no 4 year old with little hands, no universals, wobble extensions, none of that stuff, socket and a ratchet, plenty of room. Doing it that way makes #3 the easiest plug to change, not the most difficult one.

If the engine is still running rough, there's something else causing the misfire, the fuel filter will not fix that.

 

Yup wasn't that bad at all, I found my patience level working on my truck can vary, the good thing is I'm not on the clock, so it's no rush which is what makes it a hobby. Thanks again, I've learned doing this that sometimes you gotta improvise and look at it like a puzzle. I drove it to hockey last night, never going over 40mph, all was well.

I will buy a fuel pressure gauge soon and test that. A fellow on my hockey team will bring his scan tool to check my camshaft retard. So we'll work through this.

Could you tell me how to use the fuel pressure gauge once I get it?

What do I write down as my results?

 

On the scan tool, don't confuse "ignition timing advance" with "camshaft retard". They are two totally different things. Camshaft retard might show up as "CMP retard" on the scan tool, depends how it was programmed. Gotta be a high end scan tool to access the data stream, the el cheapo $500 jobbies won't do it.

Let us know when you have the pressure tester. Nothin' to it.

 

Update, hi my friend on hockey confirmed he'll bring his kick *** scanner hopefully on Tuesday. I'm not sure if he has fuel tester yet.

Just so I make sure I gather the right info can you clarify what I need to write down, when I need to write it down. (engine running hot or cold ?) and if it is "out" should he change it? (doubt it, as that would require dist hold down loosen and turned- ? ) He is a 3rd year apprentice and he is only town for another 4 weeks as he is wanted all over the province.

Lastly I have the fuel filter left, I believe I found a proper hex open end wrench , I bought a set for brake lines awhile back, this should work perfect I hope.

I drove the truck extensively and I can confirm going 70km/hr(40mph/hr) it locks up and then goes in and out of lockup over and over again, I can see the rpm drop 200 rpm, then go back up. Memory serves me right this was 2000rpm highway. Every now and then you hear the metal on metal grinding. There was no intermittent wobble drivetrain shutter like what happens in higher rpm. (50mph)

When I drive it in "3" nothing happens like this.

This really really confirms in my mind that it's something with my tranny. I will finish off the tests you requested to rule out the missfire but I'm almost positive now it's tranny. Both test drives with tranny specialist and general garage mechanic each showed converter slippage, I didn't gather the values.

Do you think after reading my above comments that it rules out misfire or to soon to rule out?

Thanks again CH!

Curious, to conclude should I have him disable my tcc clutch so it doesn't lock up? I would at least get "4th gear?" No ?

I'm going back to work soon so I know I have to bite the bullet, I just don't want to pay the full mc coy if it isn't required.

I was crossing my fingers this thread was true for my problem.
4L60E transmission slipping during lockup - AnandTech Forums

 

Testing fuel pressure and leakdown: For the most accurate readings, the engine should be cold. There are no "engine running" specs for this fuel delivery system, all readings are taken with engine off. On 1998 and newer, in the underhood fuse panel, next to the fuel pump relay, is a vacant terminal. The circuit goes directly to the fuel pump motor, and is referred to as the "fuel pump prime" circuit.


Connect the fuel pressure tester to the service port next to the distributor.
Connect one end of a fused jumper wire to battery positive.
Connect the other end to the pump prime terminal.
After fuel pressure stabilizes, write down the reading.
Remove the jumper wire.
Wait 10 minutes and write down the pressure reading.
Post both readings.



Checking camshaft retard: Connect the scan tool and access the data stream for "Camshaft Retard" or "CMP retard", (same thing, just a different name). Start the engine and briefly bring RPM up to 2000 and back to idle. CMP retard spec is zero degrees plus or minus 2 degrees. Adjustment is done by loosening the hold down bolt and rotating the distributor. The factory adjustment will allow for ~15 degrees total. If more adjustment is needed, the OEM hold down bracket must be removed and modified, or replaced with an old style small block chevy distributor hold down bracket, (Mr. Gasket #1009 ~$5). Either method will provide more than enough adjustment. RPM must be brought up over 2K and back to idle before each CMP retard reading on the scan tool.

EDIT: As for the TCC solenoid, you'll still get 4th gear whether it's connected or not. If it's disabled the converter will not lock up.

 

Fuel Filter Complete!


Steps were


1) WD 40 fitting, many times, wait 20 mins interval, use pipe wrench and fuel wrench and CCWa little pressure each time. More WD 40, wait, try a little more pressure - CAME OFF NO PROBLEM after 3 attempts!


2) Push 3 lines up off fuel pump bracket - (not related to this job)


3) Take bolt off bracket


4) drop down fuel filter to access other side and pinch off fuel line


5) Take bracket off old filter


6) Put bracket back on new filter


7) Replace fuel line from engine side on new filter clip in place


8) Align bracket up against rail while inserting fitting into hole - clean off fitting from gas leak using clean cloth


9) Push up bracket into it's old position and start bolt back in turn a couple turns


10) Once started the press down on the 3 lines so clip back in place


11 ) Double check fuel filter isn't stressed on either side, start threading fuel fitting back on by hand.


12 ) Tighten Bracket bolt down


13 ) put fuel fitting wrench back on and finish tightening (CW) the fuel fitting, bring the fuel fitting wrench towards the pipe wrench.


SNUG tight


Refer to pics


14) Key on 10 seconds


15) Start engine


16) Look for leaks


17) rev engine to 2500 rpm, smooth no problems


18 ) check for leaks, nothing. Perfect!


Took me 3 hours, but hey it's a hobby and I took my time and nothing went wrong!!! Yes another one under my belt!


Thanks CH! Will write new post re: next steps and respond to your post!

 

CH->


A little late but I added spark plug pics for your reference!!!


After fuel filter change I can still feel misfire by placing my hand on top of throttle housing. As we expected.

BTW -> Blowing air using my mouth back through fuel filter was quite hard, the pump had to be a bit stressed compared to the other fuel filter I installed which was easy to blow air through. NOT FULLY PLUGGED but definitely difficult.

1 - > Ok my friend is only bringing scan tool tomorrow but below is my procedure for when I buy the fuel pressure tester:


A) let truck sit and cool down
B) Hook up fuel pressure tester to fuel rail
C) Turn on key ign
D) Watch gauge and observe how it rises to max psi, then write down psi it ends up in first 30 seconds.
E) Key off 5 seconds
F) Key on 30 seconds observe how it rises to max psi, write down psi it ends up at
G) Turn key off, wait 10 minutes , observe drop in psi - > write down final PSI
H) Post results back.


2) Camshaft retard, will follow your instructions and hopefully it's bang on, if not I'll go out next week and buy the hold down bolt and get my friend to bring his scanner again and we can try and fix it.

Tomorrow I will get retard setting.



THANKS CH!