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'96 Blazer won't start, leaks AF

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  #1  
Old 03-12-2010, 09:31 PM
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Default '96 Blazer won't start, leaks AF

My teenage son recently took over my late Dad's '96 Blazer as his first vehicle. Unfortunately, it's been nothing but an aggravation and I'm not sure if it's worth throwing more money at.

General information:
* 4.3L
* 4 door, 4WD
* 150K miles
* Body and interior are in excellent condition
* It has a remote start that I believe was installed by my brother, we've never used it because we couldn't get it to work but my Dad did use it.
* It has a security system that my Dad had disconnected...I think.

Here's the recent background information and what I can recall of when my Dad drove it. Within the last month:

* Rear brakes
* Ball joints
* Oxygen sensor

The above cost about $1,000.

I have:
* Added almost a gallon of antifreeze after it had sat unused in my Dad's garage for about six weeks.
* Replaced the serpentine belt and pulleys
* Flushed the heater core because of inadequate heat
* Repaired pin sized hole in coolant line near the water pump

Prior to the above work being done, my son said that he had a problem starting it but I attributed that to his inexperience or because it hadn't been used in about six weeks. Well, he was right, it's been towed twice because it wouldn't start. After the first tow, the mechanic ran all kinds of tests including fuel pressure and said there was moisture in the distributor cap so I had him replace it...$100.

A week ago it wouldn't start again...probably not the distributor cap this time. For the two and a half days that it was in the shop, it started every time the mechanic tried it, without incident. I told him about the remote start and the security system. He said thatt he tried to disconnect them but he had to re-connect them because nothing at all happened when the key was turned. The mechanic was at a loss. He tested the fuel pressure again, doused the engine compartment with water hoping to find arching wires and who knows what else he tried but came up with nothing.

So, naturally a 17 year boy doesn't understand that cars don't miraculously repair themselves and insisted we go get it because "...the mechanic was able to start it." When we got there, the mechanic said that he did notice that the coil had two areas of white discolorization on it and attributed it to heat. He said that he wanted to try two things at no cost to me.

1) Replace the coil and if the starting problem didn't re-occur, we could settle up in a week or two.
2) He attached a fuel pressure gauge and showed us what the normal pressure should be whether or not the engine was running.

It started flawlessly all week until this morning when it cranked but wouldn't start. It eventually started and ran fine. We immediately checked the fuel pressure gauge and it was holding the same pressure as it had all week. He took it to school and back home and had no problem until late this afternoon. He called me and said it wouldn't start and that a lot of anti-freeze was leaking from above the oil pan. When I got home, I tried to start it but was unsuccessful. We checked the fuel pressure while cranking the engine but it now read about a quarter of what it was all week.

I do recall that my Dad had the fuel pump replaced about four years ago and it cost $800-$900.

It still needs tires, $500 and airbag work, $600.

* Any idea what the starting problem could be?
* Any idea where the anti-freeze could be leaking from in the area above the oil pan area?
* If the fuel pump turns out to be the starting problem, is it possible to install a fuel pump on the outside of the gas tank?
* It's really not a fair question but do you think it's worth another $1,100 for tires and airbag work plus the starting problem and antifreeze leak?

My apologies for such a long post and I appreciate you taking the time to read it.

Ken
 
  #2  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:17 PM
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My personal opinion, no, its not worth it. My 98 is done, at 110,000 miles, rods and bearings, A/C does not work either. Car Blue Books at about $2500, would cost about that much to replace engine. On this, you need to bick the body up off of the frame to get at some of the bolts to remove the engine.
 
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:40 PM
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After the first tow, the mechanic ran all kinds of tests including fuel pressure and said there was moisture in the distributor cap so I had him replace it...$100.
Oops. $100 down the drain. Moisture in cap would have lit up 'DTC Pxxxx Random Misfire", and he would have sold you plugs and wires.

Get complete fuel pressure tests - static and dynamic. Get a gauge or borrow one, and post back then for a walk-through.

MOST important test for fuel injected motor function FP tests.
 
  #4  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jjnemoiii View Post
My personal opinion, no, its not worth it. My 98 is done, at 110,000 miles, rods and bearings, A/C does not work either. Car Blue Books at about $2500, would cost about that much to replace engine. On this, you need to bick the body up off of the frame to get at some of the bolts to remove the engine.

whoever told you that doesn't know his *** from a hole in the ground!

find a new mechanic.
 
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Old 03-14-2010, 09:43 AM
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an AF leak around the oil pan is kinda vague at best .the oil pan covers the entire bottom of the engine . a better description of where the leak is would be helpful . as for the no start ....check your ignition switch . a low fuel pressure could be caused by a weak battery from trying to get the truck to start.
 
  #6  
Old 03-14-2010, 11:10 AM
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Next time the truck wont start, get out and thump the fuel tank with a blunt object. My dad had an 87 suburban with the same no start problem once in a while. turned out to be the fuel pump was on it's way to heaven. Replaced the pump and all was fine. Hope this will help you.
Dave
 
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Old 03-21-2010, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by old skool luvr View Post
whoever told you that doesn't know his *** from a hole in the ground!

find a new mechanic.
Sorry, probably an error on my part, I'll have to ask him. Thank You for the correction...
 
  #8  
Old 03-21-2010, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Sadchevy View Post
an AF leak around the oil pan is kinda vague at best .the oil pan covers the entire bottom of the engine . a better description of where the leak is would be helpful . as for the no start ....check your ignition switch . a low fuel pressure could be caused by a weak battery from trying to get the truck to start.

I'd be willing to bet the intake gaskets are trashed, or at least one side, causing it to leak down the back/side of the engine.
 
  #9  
Old 03-22-2010, 01:37 AM
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yup i agree with midnight for where the leak is comming from mine did the same replaced the intake gaskets no more leak now installing a new motor though due to spun bearing but it had 290,000 miles on it. as for the no start it is probally the pump or maybe a lose connection..
 
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