If you have the lighted mirrors on the visors, check to make sure the light is actually going out when you close the cover. This hidden current drain, day in and day out, will ruin your battery if you don't notice it for a while. Go on, ask me how I know this.

I've not bought parts on eBay, but surprisingly amazon.com usually has very competitive pricing on auto parts, sometimes even with free shipping. I find it weird buying auto parts from a bookstore, but whatever works, right? Problem is that their parts finder sucks incredibly, bringing up tens of thousands of totally unrelated items that don't even come close to fitting your particular vehicle. Solution is to use the part finder at rockauto.com, get the part number there and then plug that into amazon... heck you may even get a better price at rockauto, so it's worth looking.

 

Well, as it seems to have turned out, the new starter has solved the ignition problem. It was easier than I thought it would be, 2 bolts and the 2 wires to the starter and that was it.
Some of you speculated it was the cap and rotor, which I had replaced along w the ignition coil prior to buying the new starter. However they did not solve the issue, until today when I put in the new starter. My only hope is that it will last a while since I bought it from ebay and it does have a 1 year replacement warranty. I will keep you guys posted.

Next on the list of things to do, the front left speed sensor. that is a bit of a pain but I also have the part already in hand ready to replace. I'll keep you guys posted, thanks for the replies

 

up to now, I am out of options and very frustrated. After driving my truck a few hours after the new starter was put in, I still have to crank it twice to get it to start. I have ran out of things to fix. I tested the alternator and it is good, the battery is good. I have replaced the cap and rotor, the ignition coil, and the starter. I don't know what to do anymore.
Someone here had mentioned they had the same problem but it went away after replacing the gas pump. I would do the same but mine still works good.
all I can think of doing now is taking it to the dealer and see what they will tell me, but the diagnosis alone is $120 so I'm do and don't want to do it. what do you guys suggest? this is one pesky problem that is costing me money and its just not getting fixed PLEASE PLEASE HELP!!!!!

P.S. 1.I have notice that when it does start normally it make a hard start up noise and feels like a shake in the engine compartment. and 2. when I have to crank it to get it to start, the start up feels delayed, it revs after ive almost turned the key back to the mid position.


P.S.S. IF ANYONE LIVES NEAR PASADENA CA. AND CAN HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT I WILL BE WILLING TO OFFER SOME MONEY TO GET THIS PROBLEM FIXED. THANKS!!

 

So your problem is that you have to turn the key a few times just to get the starter to spin over the engine. Your problem may very well be the ignition switch in the steering column (see link at the bottom of my signature).

Also, you may want to test the fuel pressure while you are at it.

BTW, double posting is against forum rules. Please limit your question to one thread. Thanks,

 

Yeah first do your ignition switch because that's less expensive than a fuel pump... also check the fuel pressure. The guy above me has a link on how to do it.

Also replace your in line fuel filter. its under the car kind of behind the drivers seat. its not too hard to find and I did it in like 10-15 minutes lol.

 

Yeah, definitely do your fuel filter. Fuel pressure test is next in line to see if you have bleed-down issues.

My truck has a similar issue and I'm 99% sure it's a faulty check valve in the pump. Usually if I crank while the pump is priming it starts up, but not always. I can't justify a new pump since mine is only 2.5 years old from previous owner (done by local stealership).

When people say it could be the pump, it's not actually the pump itself, but merely a check valve that is integrated into the pump assembly (entire pump module has to be replaced to get a new check valve). The check valve is supposed to keep the system pressurized after the VCM stops the 2-second prime-up when you turn the key on. If it's bad, fuel flows backwards when the pump turns off and the system doesn't stay pressurized.

Fuel Pressure Regulator is the other likely cause of pressure bleed-downs. You might be able to build a case for this by inspecting your spark plugs and doing a pressure test. Could also be some other internal fuel leak...