ComputerNerdBD, wow! Compressor for $160+/- ??? Around here (West Coast Canada) to get price like that is out of the 'recyclers' part stores are charging $600 + new, $325 remanufactured. Rockauto seems like the place to go for me! Hope they ship to Canada!!

 

WalkGood: Thanks for the tip, but with bad experiences with eBay, I would like to stick with brand name parts

I just ordered the parts from Amazon. $248.06 total after tax and my free 2 day shipping. There goes my budget right there, but I don't want to have to do this again.

Delphi CS0120 Compressor
AC Delco 15-1630 Accumulator
AC Delco 15-5754 Orifice Tube

That just leaves R134A, the flush, evacuation and pulling vacuum on the system.

 

Sure... if you like pissing money away. Read the bit I typed about the desiccant (and appreciate it, because I typed it out on a cell phone, as I'm doing now, and it's a pain in the ***). That's why you need to pull a vacuum.

 

I mistyped, I meant how do you install the accumulator while it is sealed? I probably just do not understand how it all works.

While you are connecting the accumulator isn't it unsealed? How does the negative pressure (i.e. pulling a vacuum) stay negative while removing and replacing the accumulator with a new one?
And yes, I do appreciate your answers and time spent replying.

Thank you.

 

WalkGood, the desiccant does not instantly blow up. It comes with a plug on both sides, it should be slightly pressurized with dry nitrogen from the factory. This is for shelf stability. You just take the plugs out hook up your lines and whatever you need to do. Pull the vacuum and charge. Its not going to go bad. If you have some delays you can put some pag oil in put the caps back on and vacuum the canister itself...it will stay fine like that for awhile. Just remember to subtract the amount of oil you put in from the total amount the new system needs.

 

Ok so now that the parts are on order and I am getting a bypass pulley in the meantime so I can drive the car to a shop if needed, what process should I follow to replace the parts myself, but still allow to get the system flushed at a shop? I don't want to void the compressor warranty. I realize I can't replace everything and get it flushed afterward because then that would defeat the purpose. Should I get the freon removed, remove the compressor, put the bypass pulley on, get the flush done, and then replace the other parts and fill it up? What would be the recommended steps? Thanks.

 

I personally use Robinair Power Flush Solvent, Works well, no residue. I got my pressurized flushing unit from Amazon; holds a quart of solvent. After separating all the connections, use the adapter that comes with the kit and fasten it to the outlet (lower pressure) side of each component with another hose to the inlet to catch the contimated solvent, then flush until clean. Using clean compressed air with a bypass relief nozzle, run air through them for a while to evaporate the solvent. Install the new compressor, orifice tube, connect them and the lines for the evaporator and condenser with new O rings. I connect the dryer/accumulator last right before pulling vacuum. As spittybays stated earlier, want to reduce its the exposure to the atmosphere. Then comes the recharge and "sniffing" for any leaks. I scored a good used Robinaire cool tech unit which makes life a whole lot easier,does all the hard stuff right in my garage.

 

I got the compressor today. Nice. Did spill some of the oil when I accidentally turned it, but there is still some in there. I would just have to put some back in. There was only 2oz in the compressor. Is this a big problem as long as I put more oil in it? How much oil does it take for the system on the 98?

Also I noticed something new on the old compressor. When I tested it again tonight, I found that the pulley was turning faster than the clutch in addition to making a ton of noise similar to a machine gun that increases with RPM. I tried to turn the pulley with the belt off and while that turned cleanly, turning the clutch was full of very hard spots. It is like the compressor has an internal issue that is causing enough resistance to make the clutch slip and start to stretch the belt.

So is pulling the vacuum really necessary after installing everything? Would that require a second or third shop visit? I guess I can get the refrigerant safely removed; remove the accumulator, orifice tube and old compressor, put a bypass pulley on (would not feel safe driving with the old compressor holding the belt even with everything disconnected and only being used as a pulley), drive the car to the shop for the flush (if someone can do it cheaply. I don't have access to shop air or a flush gun. Honestly, I don't want to buy tools I may only use once because unless the compressor fails on my Trailblazer (knock on wood), I don't want to have to do this again.) of the evaporator/condenser and lines, then pour oil into the compressor, put the compressor in, install the new orifice tube and accumulator, hook everything up, charge the system and call it a day?

What are the consequences of too much oil in the system? Seeing how oil was leaking out the bottom of the compressor, I did add a small can of PAG oil the past 2 summers. Too much?

 

did you ever get your a/c fixed and running cold again? I have the same problem with a 2002 blazer xtream. clutch broken on compressor . got an a/c kit online from carpartswarehoue.com for 260.00 new compressor/clutch, dryer , expansion device, oil and o ring kit. I can like you take everything off and put new on and then have it charged but will it work. did you have any luck?

 

Your compressor requires 8 oz of PAG 150. What I did was pour 4 oz into the compressor and then 4 oz into the accumulator. That way it will be dispersed properly throughout the system.

Pulling vacuum is absolutely essential after installing all components. There are at least two reasons for pulling vacuum: to ensure there are no leaks in the system and to get all of the moisture out of it. If there are leaks then you'll lose your refrigerant. If there's moisture it can cause corrosion in the system.

What you may want to do is borrow a vacuum pump from your local auto parts store to pull a vacuum yourself just to make sure the system is ready for charging. You'll also need a manifold gauge set which may or may not be available as a loaner tool. I just recently resurrected the A/C system on my '98 Jimmy and I was very successful with a borrowed vacuum pump and gauge set.