Hi All,

I recently purchased a 99 blazer with auto climate system. The ac worked for
about 3 wks and then no cold air.

I have local mechanic check gas charge and it showed system was full, but
not appearing to flow, plus compressor was making a little noise.
He evac'd system for me, so I could pull system apart and replace parts
as needed.

I found the orifice tube clogged with metal bits, black oil. After researching this symptom it seems a complete rebuild is needed. Buying all new components is pricey [$400] so I thought about some used + new.


My plan is to get a jy [junkyard] compressor, condensor and hose assembly from a recently junked blazer, system was still under pressure. All for $130.
Add a new accumlator, orifice tube, Oring kit and do the rebuild myself and have mech evac and charge system.

Anyone have comments / recommendations on this plan?

Question on the condensor swap, can this be done without pulling radiator or not?

Thanks,
Chris99

 

I had same problem, compressor making noise, worse at higher revs, system was charged, hooked up gauge when compressor was running and only have a pressure change of less than 5psi. I just picked up a compressor from the JY and charged the system and away I went, cold air again (yay).
That price for everything from a JY is pretty good, I spent almost 200 on the compressor (30,000km on it).

As for the condensor take off the upper fan shroud and rad support and see if you can get it out without taking the rad out, its only a few bolts to check (When i replaced my rad i never looked at condensor to see how it came out so cant help you there)

 

I dunno if you have got those parts yet but I strongly suggest you just reserve them and leave on the donor vehicle until you're ready to use them or else flush them thoroughly before you install em.
PAG oil sucks up water like a sponge. If parts are left open long and installed without flushing, the dessicant in the new accumulator will be close to saturated even with a good evacuation.
It is neither practical nor desirable to flush a compressor. Best thing is to drain all oil possible and fill with same amount of new from fresh bottle. You COULD ALSO bake out the REMAINING moisture by putting it in a 230 deg oven for 2 hours or so.
Condenser MUST be flushed if left open more than a few hours.

 

Thanks for info, guys. Do you agree that trying to flush out my old condenser is bad idea considering the metal I found in Otube?

Reason I ask is this: have not found a local shop that is equipped to do flush, only evac/charge. So I have no sure way to totally flush/clean out debris. So I am opting for
used condensor, provided it shows no evidence of debris.

Pettyfog, re: condenser flush, if I use a DIY aerosol flush kit [17oz can] will that be enough?

Chris99

 

A DIY flush is better than nothing. GM however has claimed that flushes actually do long term damage because of solution remnants.
Longer lines, parts, or system is left open the more moisture it absorbs.
Has more to do with moisture absorbed by PAG than junk.

And you're right.. better a used condenser from a good system rather than one from a compressor failure.

Bottom line: If given the choice leave donor system whole and charged until ready to transplant and charge.
IMO, half hour or less open would be perfect.
- Alternatively ask the shop if they can pull the system down to 29 in hg for at least 4 hours before charging. At temp above 65 deg that should be enough.

I'm trying to figure out how to reliably attach a residential type filter drier to the lines between condenser out and orifice. That's what is needed IMO. Microfilters are available now but they have little filter and no drying capacity.
The only downside would be lag between the cycling sw off and stop of flow... ie evap would just keep on cooling because they store about 4 oz of liquid