I finally got the ABS codes pulled at a different AdvanceAuto store (and also at a firestone tire dealer) They are:
C0265-motor relay circuit
C0246-
C0245
C0251
C0252
C0281-stop lamp switch

Since all (except the last one) could be caused by intermittent power. I tool the module out again and inspected it. The power-in connector indeed had cracked solder joints. I was focused on the coils before. Initial power up showed no faults. I'll report back in about a week on the long-term testing of the fix.

The stoplight switch issue was fixed a while back when I was troubleshooting the Cruise Control.

 

About 300 miles later, in hot and cooler weather, in rain and sun, I declare this problem solved.

 

Congrats!


I'll send you mine so you can fix it for me!!

 

Thanks,


Bagherra, a couple of sellers on Ebay have the repair service for 45 bucks including return shipping if you can't do it yourself. Not a bad cost.

 

Have the same problem However the wheel bearing pass side is going which i have 2 new hubs and upgrade brakes to throw in and the lights P light and ABS came on just today ..lets see how it go's but thanks for the post ..something to look on afterwards

 

I removed the three electrical connectors and removed the module; sprayed contact cleaner in all and then re-mated the connectors couple of times each to "clean" the contacts". So far so good...no lights have returned. Probably just a matter of time before I remove the module and do some soldering.

I have found that reflowing solder has solved many problems on cars in the past couple of years; HVAC, radio, seat controls, 4wd, etc...and not just on my Blazer. Sure seems that cracked solder joints are a very common problem.

 

Just after I said, out loud, "looks like I fixed the ABS + Brake Light" problem....both lights come on....aaarrrggghhhh!
Lights only come on after driving for a bit and 20 or so engine start/stop cycles.
Time to pull the module out and do some solder re-flowing.

 

The problem is due to the method/parameters that Kelsey Hayes used to solder the circuit boards. The surface mount electronic components on the bottom of the board go thru a wave soldering machine. The tab connectors get soldered during that same process. They tried to strike a balance of heat/time between not harming those components while still getting a "good enough" solder joint on the 4 large tab connectors, 2 for power and 2 motor drive. When re-soldering, we do not have that "balance" to worry about. Good solder/flux and lots of heat/time are key.


Good luck.

 

These lights are driving me nuts! Before having ABS lights off and on i had an issue where my brakes would build up pressure in the warm weather. I was figuring my pump wasn't being controlled at all due to overheating, so i got a new ABS module off rockauto for a reasonable price. It completely fixed the pressure build up, but now I'm having the lights come on and off as described here. I re grounded twice actually and no luck. I feel like i shouldn't have to re solder a brand new unit, but who knows.

Still getting c0265 code. Are there any other points i could check before cracking open my new module? The only other strange thing going on is my air bag light turns off and on just as much as my abs lights. May be unrelated but getting B0036 for that. Haven't inspected the sensor very thoroughly.

 

C0265 could be no power getting to the Module via the heavy Red and Black wires. Not the ones going to the motor but the other ones. Check them out. Should have B+ on the red wire to ground and <2 ohms (should be much lower) from Black wire to ground. Broken wires could be the cause as well as a burnt or loose fuse(s?).