Ok checked that. The line under the accumalator was warm/hot but the little part where the orfice tube was not cool nor cold. Felt air coming out of the fitting where the lower line connects to the evaporator... So maybe a leak there or possibly a clogged orfice tube? I have an o-ring kit and the orfice tubes are not expensive. Will a clogged orfice tube be making the compressor stay on when ac is selected? In theory it would not the pressure sensor get the proper reading which in tales that the compressor would stay off or on in my instance. Thank you for your help Hook.

 

We really need to know what the pressures are. BUT, if an orifice tube is restricted too much, both low side and high side pressures will be low. Refrigerant changes from a high pressure liquid to a low pressure gas at the orifice tube, this is what causes it to get cold. If/when a high side line is restricted, it will get cold at the restriction. This is why I had you check if it got cold at the orifice tube, (where it should get cold). With that in mind, the screen in the orifice tube might be torn or non-existant. When that happens, it doesn't change temp at the orifice tube. I'm not saying this is definitely the problem because several things can cause what you have going on, but it's worth taking apart and checking it.

 

Yeah I can take it to my brothers shop and have them pull the refrigerant out. I'd like to get some gauges to check that out before I do so and so I can post the results 😄 we had dye in the system to check for leaks and nothing under the black light showed up but it feels like something is leaking at that exact location. There's wasn't any residue on my fingers so I'm not sure. Gonna go by sears tomorrow and hopefully get this checked out and post results.

 

Is Mastercool a good gauge set? I see a lot of those online and sears also carries it. I don't really know what a "good" set is. Could you shine some light on that so I don't buy junk please?

 

Robinaire is one of the better quality units. Mastercool is middle of the road. The main thing with any brand, is to stay away from the aluminum body manifolds. The "****" style valves are el cheapo. Brass manifold is the way to go, with "gate" style valves.

Here's an el cheapo, stay away:




Here's a better one:

 

I'm gonna have to get on online or drive further out of my area the only ones I could find are not made of brass only aluminum.... Bummer. Least it's cooling down here now! 😄Still would like to get it fixed for my benifit though. Will post results ASAP when I get a better quality unit.

 

Ok hears an update sore hittin so long.... Hella busy at work with the drag races. Anyhoo my compressor is leaking at the front seal behind the clutch. I saw oil on the lines that come off the compressor and around the clutch so I'm assuming the compressor might be the culprit. I do plan on replacing that and the high pressure switch on the back. Clutch is not seized the seal is just leaking... Am I doing this correctly?

 

If the front seal is leaking, it needs to be replaced. Here's something to consider though: Your 2000 originally came with a Harrison HT6 compressor. They are very well known for leaking where the case halves join together. This is affectionately called a "belly leak". New or rebuilt, eventually they will leak. Sanden makes a direct fit, bolt on replacement compressor that is designed differently, and works extremely well. With one problem for sure, and possibly another more serious problem lurking, it might be worth replacing your compressor rather than repair it.

 

Yes that is why I replaced the compressor in the first place because the "belly leak". What a crappy design😛 Do you happen to know what auto parts store carries th Sanden compressor? Is it a solid case instead of the two piece design? If it's just one solid case I'll definitely get that one so I don't have that problem. Since I'm doing that I'll replace the orfice tube as I do not want to take any chances ruining the new compressor. I talked to a tech and he said since the dryer is new and I won't have to replace that since the system will not be open long.... 😕 dunno about that those aren't expensive so I may get one of those as well. Thank you again for your help Hook.

 

Sanden model #4440. You can check with auto parts stores locally or online.



Here'a a link: 4440 Compressor