Ok i have a 1997 Blazer LS with the auto trans and 4x4.I threw a rod.I am reasonably sure that the trans is in good shape. So it seamsto me it would be easier to remove just the engine. I have a low ceiling also so removing engine and trans out the front are not realy am option. I don't feal likedropping the trans out the bottom unless i have to. However i startedtearing into it and it doesn't look like the top bell housing bolts are even accesable. Also is it true there are hales in the floor board to remove the bell housing bolts?


In short:
1) Can i remove the engine w/o pulling the trans, and transfer case?
2) Will removing just the engine be easier?
3) Also is it true there are holes in the floor board to remove the bell housing bolts?


Thanks for any help!! The only shop manual i have is a haynes which seams do be better as a booster seat than a good source of info.

 

Yes you can pull just the engine by itself.
I think that just pulling the engine is easier.
No there are no holes in the floor for access. I use a wrench from the engine compartment to get the top bolts and I use a long extention and and a swivel socket to get to the 2 really tough ones on the upper corners.
If you use a floor jack and move the transmission crossmember out of the way, then lower the back of the transmission, you have easier access to those tough 2 bolts, then just put the crossmember back in place so that you can remove the rest of the bolts and pull the engine. Keep a floor jack under the front of the transmission (with a block of wood on it), so that you can adjust the hight as nessessary.

 

What I do when I do these motors is to remove the front 6 body mount bolts. Then jack the body up enough to put a 2x4 between the frame and the body. I have tried the wrench trick from the top for the 2 top bellhousing bolts, and I did not like the result. Every one of these motors I have done I jacked the body and have had real good luck with it. Also pulling the dist. out before early on in the removal process works out well also. And don't forget the 3 bolts on the back of the heads, 2 for grounds, and 1 for the fuel line bracket. Good luck, Korey. P.S. I have tried to lower the back of the trans, but on a 4x4 I find the tail housing of the t-case hits the torsion bar cross member and does not let it come down far enough. But maybe you will have better luck.

 

So where are the bolts that let you move the body up?
Also where do you put the 2x4? Also is the 2x4 on the 4 side so yo uget 4inchs of lift, or 2? as in where between the body and frame? What else do i have to remove to lift the body up?

I cannot see anyway to get the top bell housing bolts from the top. I'd rather chop my nuts off!! lol anyway i'll try this method fiorst of course. This should be a fun truck after im done. Considering we are in the middle oif a damn blizzard right now i miss her right now. I had to drive my turbo car home in this, and they called the plows off the road [:@].


Thank you guys for the help, i'm sure i'll have more questions soon!

 

There are 2 nuts up front under the radiator. Then there are bolts just behind the front wheels then just keep going back on the frame rails. They are pretty noticable they also have rubber bushings and washers theat help to ID them. Then you put the 2x4 just behind the front wheels using the 2" side. The higher you jack the body, the easier to get to the bolts. Also watch the front bumper corners, I usually don't do anything with them, but you might want to keep an eye on them while you are jacking the body. Any more ? and I would love to help.Korey.

 

Ok so i'll try that tonight!! Thanks a bunch man im gonna try and have this completed within two weeks. So you guys think it would be dangerous to run 12:1, or 12.5:1 compression on this truck. I don't usually tow anything with this truck, but i still would like to have the option. here check this out. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2568605