Well, I decided it was time to replace my ball joints (both upper/lower, both sides). Found this (https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/factory-ball-joint-replacement-discussion-thread-27615/), and decided it looked easy enough- I could save the $600-700 that the shop would charge.

Well, I must not have done it exactly the same way, because three days later, I'm still not even close to being done.

Right now, I'm at the point where the lower ball joint is stuck in the steering knuckle, and the knuckle is attached to the tie rods. After pounding and pounding, it won't budge. I'm stuck...

Any advice? I could keep pounding, but that's not fun, and it doesn't seem like it will work. I would rather not remove the knuckle from the tie rods, but I will if I have to...

I want to get this done, because until I do, it's the 40-passenger limo for me!

 

BFH!!!!!

(bigger freakin' hammer). Like.. a 3-4 lb mini-sledge or maybe a shop maul =). Truly, an 8lb sledge wouldn't be overkill at all.

Using that carpenter's hammer in your pic would be like trying to kill an elk with a BB-gun...

 

I've seen in Auto stores a tool for separating ball joints. It's kind of like a gear puller. If you aren't having any luck with the hammer and pickle fork approach, it might just be easier to drop the 30 bucks and save yourself the heartbreak of having to take public transit.

 

Hopefully you have just mixed terms up here. The ball joint does not attach to the tie rod, that is the outer tie rod end.

Try using some oil on the tie rod end stem and let it soak a bit.

You can also tap the stem end with the nut at the end to take the blow...but go easy on this was as it could mess up the threads and then you will be replacing the tie rod ends as well. Of course maybe you should anyways.....

Good luck

 

I would try heating it up. Then hitting it with a big hammer. If that doesnt work. Go to an auto parts store and get a pitman arm puller. You should be able to slide it over and press the ball join out.

 

Just to recap:

Are you talking about a ball joint press, or a pitman arm puller? The press won't work, but I could use the pitman arm puller to drive the shaft out...

Hey... The bus is, uh, fun...

I meant remove the steering knuckle from the tie rod, so that it is completely separate from the vehicle. Not something I want to get into right now, unless...

You think I should at this point? I'm most of the way there, but we see how I got there...

You mean to use the pitman arm puller jaws to clamp onto the steering knuckle, and use the puller to press the shaft of the joint out?

Guess it's off to Wally-World for me...

Thanks-- let's hope this works!

 

Your best bet would be to separate that tie rod end from the knuckle (2 min job) so that you can get the knuckle on a bench or in a vice, that way you can work on it properly. Since you are doing the ball joints you will need an alignment anyway, besides popping the tie rod ends won't affect the alignment.

Hindsight - the easiest way to split a ball joint is to back off the lock nut and then while the knuckle is still attached to the control arm beat on the control arm with a big hammer - it will split. Then you have all the room you need to drill out the rivets

PS - Get a bigger hammer.

 

--Sratch all that, your pics finally loaded and since I've never done this on my Blazer yet, I'm not sure if this applies.--

What your problem is, is that you are probably hitting the control arm trying to pull it down from the spindle? You are loosing all your driving force, which is being absorbed by the rubber bushings as well as the shock.

You are going to need to use a jack and support the spindle(only the spindle).

Loosen the castle nut and unthread it to the end of the stud(flush).

With the spindle supported by a jack or other strong form of support, you should be left with the control arm unsupported and essentially hanging from the spindle.

I keep a piece of of aluminum shaft laying around so that it deforms before the nut/stud does. Give it a few whacks on the end of the stud and you should be in business.

I need to take a few pictures next time I do this so I can make a write-up.

 

The tool I was talking about was just called a Ball-joint separator. I had a quick look at it today at Princess Auto (if you have such a thing where you live) It basically has two forked ends that fit between the balljoint and the control arm with a bolt that tightens to provide the separation without the blunt force trauma.

http://www.balljointseparator.com

A quick Google search brought this up. I didnt read it, but a few of the pretty pictures show the part Im talking about.

 

You should have broken the joints before you removed the steering knuckle,that way everything is solid and the hammer blows count.
And you will need a small sledge hammer, a claw hammer just doesn't
have enough weight behind it to be effective. Good luck.