I was betting on the temp sensors flooding the engine, but sadly we have ruled them out. Looks like George has some ideas for you on the ignition.

 

im getting the compression tester soon 😁 I'll have that info for both you guys 😁 I've had this lil truck for about 5 years I use it very little but have driven it on about 400 miles trips and runs nice hope I can get him back on the road helps so much with house stuff.
I
was looking at other possibilities and not familiar but i seen a few videos on purge evac systems and was wondering if this could be a factor. If the evac is clogged could the fumes go back to the intake and cause it to choke or no start??

also was looking at videos of no start and a guy was pissed off that the distributer he bought had the rotir welded incorrectly i did buy a cheap distributor online at walmart like $50 just to get it running then was planning on getting a better quality once i know its the problem.

what about catalitic been clogged can this cause back fire and no start?

 

Why did you have to replace the distributor?

Since you straightened out the ignition wire sequence do you still get strange spark results at the plug end of the wires?

have you changed the ICM or the coil?

you verified strong spark at the coil but not at the plugs. I wonder if the coil output is marginal or if you hac
ve marginal voltage at either the ICM or the coil. Have you by chance checked these voltages?

George

 

[QUOTE=GeorgeLG;718871]Why did you have to replace the distributor?
💢💢 when my car died out a few months ago I first saw the plugs black and knew they had about a year so I replaced (but no start ) then I saw the nasty carbon build up in the cap and rotor so I replaced them (no start) then I noticed that the distributer had play (moved loosely) so I removed it and found the gear at the bottom really chew up badly that's when I decided to buy at least a cheap one so I can make sure it starts before investing on a good $200 dollar one.💢💢

Since you straightened out the ignition wire sequence do you still get strange spark results at the plug end of the wires? 💢💢 i havent had the vhace to check that will do asap💢💢

have you changed the ICM or the coil? I changed the coil not the ICM wanted to girst vheck the compression before buying a spark tester (not the lighted one I got that one but one that test how strong the ark measures)

you verified strong spark at the coil but not at the plugs. I wonder if the coil output is marginal or if you hac
ve marginal voltage at either the ICM or the coil. Have you by chance checked these voltages? 💢 the voltages that supply the coil and ICM? No I haven't I'll do and report asap💢💢

 

Check the voltages during/not cranking.

You can replace the gear at the bottom of the old distributor which is what I did during the LIM gasket repair. My OEM distr has 205,000 miles on it:



George

 

And while I was at it I replaced the distr hold down so that I could zero out cam retard easily:


George

 

lol i did this first before buying the new one got only the gear then the cam sensor I had already got the cap and rotor so it was practically new then gave up and bought it all new lol

 

this part I dont understard what do you mean by zero out retard?? From what i understad this distributer is fixed right so would this allow for timing change?? So if the belt is loose or something you can adjust it??

 

The cam sensor retard spec is 0 +/- 2 degrees. With engine wear this parameter can start to drift and can get far enough out of whack to cause ignition problems. The way to deal with it is to modify or replace the hold down bracket so that you can rotate the distr to get close to 0 degrees.

George

 

thanks!! I will look into getting that part 🙌 hey I just received my compression tester I will have that info later today 😁