I want to thank everyone on here. The helpI got here was actually better then in the Haynes manual.I mean it!!!!!! I asked around for help with the fuel O-rings leaking and Intake gasket removal. The job went well. The O-rings in the spider do not leak now thanks to the info I got. However, whenI go to start it I have to Jump the battery, it cranks really slow, and when it did turn overit knocked like no other. Almost a metal knock. (no knock when cranking) Engine is full of oil, ran well before the swap, no tools left inside motor. I marked the distributer but when we re-installed it we couldn't get it to align right up, we got within a few mm's. I attempted to find top dead center but it was 10:30pm and freezing out. Any suggestions? The truck sat for about a week because I didn't want coolant getting in the motor thanks to a lot of advice from people on here. I just want this done already and unfortantly i didn't have the money to have someone do it. Thanks Again.

 

BumpDbump..

 

For distributor timing, check the EDI Engine Timing thread in the DIY section.

 

Thanks I saw that and I'm going to do another attempt at it on sunday. I noticed that the screws do not tighten on the distributor, the plastic holes are cracked. ShouldI buy a new one? Hopefully that severe knockwas from thetiming being off and not something wrong with the motor.

 

You definitely need to get the distributor cap on tight or it will just come off... I would say if you cannot find a distributor locally in the junkyard, you should try maybe eBay.

I do not know what they are worth, but I have one sitting in my garage that came out of a running 96 Astro van with the 4.3L.

 

ok thx.I think im gonna buy a new one for 90 bucks to be safe.

 

Ok I'm going to try and finish this job up tomorrow.(hoping the severe knock is just the distributor). However the distributor I'm buying doesn't come with the module. Is this hard to swap? Thanks.