A few quick questions. Is the ICM the thing that's attached to the wiring harness on the distributor? And how do I tell if it's a 6 or 4 pin? By how many wires are on the harness? I'm going to get it tested. Is it easy to get out? Thanks.

 

The ICM is shown in the image posted by Rich (rriddle3) above. It is to the right of the coil in the attached image.

 

A million thanks. I've been looking everywhere and couldn't seem to find a straight answer. So the piece below the rotor is the hall effect switch? Would this cause rough idle/lack of power? Because I've already replaced the whole coil, along with the ICM, and still the same story. Thanks again.

 

That is the CMP (camshaft position) sensor which is a hall effect type sensor.

Are you sure you got everything installed correctly when your replaced everything?

 

Yeah, everything's in order. I'm just going to go to the scrap yard and get a distributor, because like I said earlier my cap is only being held on by one screw and I have a buddy who will swap them for a case of beer and he lives close so I can at least drive over there now that I got it half running.

 

OK, so the mechanic guy is gone on vacation for 2 weeks, and it's going to get cold so I'm going to get this distributor switched tomorrow. So my question is, when I pull my old one out should I make a mark on the block where the rotor is pointing? And when I go to install the new one how do I line it up correctly? What should I avoid doing? Thanks.

 

Mark the body of the distributor first with the location of the rotor when it is fully seated. When you lift it out, the rotor will turn as the helical gears disengage from each other. Once the rotor stops, make another mark on the body of the distributor. Transfer your marks over to the replacement distributor and drop it in.

 

So should I turn the rotor on the new distributor to the second mark before I drop it in? Sorry about all the questions, this is my first time doing this and I don't want to mess anything up.

 

So I decided to clean my IAC and took off the TPS, not knowing what the hell it was. The IAC was really dirty with carbon, so I made it nice and shiny. I put them back on and fired it up and now it holds steady at 2500 RPM and will not go down. Is this the IAC or the TPS? I kind of had to twist the TPS back on, is there a trick to doing this?

 

Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Reconnect it and turn the key to the RUN position and let it sit there for a bit. Then turn the key off. Last, start the truck. See if the idle resets.