Roland
Your problem has got me thinking; what would I do? Your shut down is interesting,what happened. You can turn the engine by hand, so I go back to electrical. Do headlights work? If you turn key with lights on do they dim when you try to engage starter? You said you changed battery was this before or after, and if before why? I always suspect battery connections. My vehicle is also a 99 and you want yours to crank. I opened the hood and went to relay box and fuses. I pulled the starter relay; read on the side of relay numbers. If relay is laying flat, you looking down upon it from above as it would sit in the normal position, this is the number location of the pins. #86 is the pin that engages the starter. So as you lean over the fender, pin #86 is forward and closed to fender. You can take a jumper wire from the + on your battery and jump to pin #86. My vehicle cranks. If yours does not, I would take a set of jumpers and go from the negative terminal to ground on your engine, this will bypass your ground system. Now does it crank? If it cranks, good; starter is good and engine turns over ground is bad. On the plus side of your battery the terminal has a large red lead and black, I think the black lead goes to the starter. The red goes under battery box to a main fuse (master??) than on to your relay box and fuses. If you look at the relay box with the lid off, it has a large red lead coming to it, looks like maybe a 5/16 nut holding it to the relay box, this will be your supply. Is it tight? You could jump from battery terminal + to this terminal with your jumper, this will bypass the main wire and connections.
I suspect a bad connection, battery terminals or main wires or where they connect up. If you were driving and engine quit it should not have anything to do with starter. It is more like your power supply got interrupted. I think you said it bucked around a bit. Make and break electrical connections, than disconnect. In relay box are 6 large fuses of high amp ratings. All mine test good with key off. What I mean power is present both terminals of fuse. I also wouldn't be opposed to removing said fuses one at a time and make sure ends don't show heat coloration. Don't think this will be the case.
I hope this was some help. I also spend some time over there, back in yesteryear.
Hello and thank You for your Knowledge....I will Check all this also, appreciate the input Muchly.... My PTSD Triggered from stress and I had a an anxiety attack. But Im ready to begin more testing. These are some good Ideas and tricks The Head lights don't dim. I just put a new battery in a week before , due to the fact the truck sat for 3 years and was dead as hell LOL I also did complete tune up Then also. I was coming home to do a oil/filter change when this happed. Ive done a complete steering rebuild before this also tie rod ends and bushings /alignment. New front hubs /bearings & sensors /ball joints , speed senor on transfer case. New transmission tail seal / U - joints front and back. Brake pads and rotors. changed all gear oils front and back Diff. and one CV axle and seals. Basically over hauled the entire drive train. then this little surprise....happened.
I'll Get back to you on my findings....Thank You For your service also Brother. I was one year with 11th ACR 2nd Brigade. L Troop & one year 101st Airborne 3rd brigade 327th inf. Company C .I was a replacement troop for those lost from that company from the Battle of Hamburger Hill .!! Im 100% disabled from Agent Orange and PTSD
Last edited by Roland Porter; 07-28-2019 at 04:55 PM.
ntWell Larry..... I did jump the starter your way....BUT all I got was sparks every time I put the wire in the pin hole . I tried the jumper cable on the neg. post to the ground strap. Nothing.....Also Pos. post to main box post. Still nothing then it hit me. There must be a safety feature or switch that kills the flow of current to the starter to avoid starting the engine after a problem with oil pressure, similar to the safety switch that's on ford fuel pumps. In this case it could be the oil pressure sensor/ switch . Now in most cases safety switches as these can be reset, by disconnecting the battery for 5mins then re connect it. this usually resets them as it does on the Fords. But I was told that if the sensor is old it may have the life of only working once then and blow. Thus no energy to the starter until replaced....sorta like the Male Praying Mantises.....One good shot then you dead...LOL.
Makes sense to me...The reset option didn't work...... so I buy the sensor then I buy the special socket. This sensor is Buried under the distributer cap area and a load of wires& hose and a metal tube and worse of all if you get the socket on it you only have about two inches to TRY and hook up some kind of extension combo to get a ratchet connected to loosen it. I did get at one time a ratchet connection , but the fire wall wouldn't let me move the ratchet to loosen it.. I tried every size shape tools and swivels, to no avail . then I cut about 1 1/2 inches off my Ratchet handle to clear obstacles keeping me not able to move it to pull the senor. that worked, BUT after replaceing that switch I still have the same problem..... so I went online and reserved a spot at the Firing range for Monday...2 AK's & a Glock 21 time for release.....LOL
Last edited by Roland Porter; 07-29-2019 at 05:15 AM.
With a proper diagnosis we can get your truck fixed without swapping parts.
You have an electrical problem and probably never had an oil pressure problem. I don't think your truck is locking out the ignition because of an oil pressure problem. Your starting circuit does not use the PCM so we should start there because that may solve all of your problems if say for instance this whole thing is the ignition switch or something in the fuse/relay box common to starting/ignition/system voltage.
What is your battery voltage at rest (with a meter)? Does it change when you try to start the truck?
Your starter has two circuits: power from the battery that gets routed to the starter motor by the starter relay and the control circuit that energizes the starter relay. Lets find out if your ignition switch is working first. When you turn the switch to start, what is the voltage at the crank fuse under the hood in the fuse/relay box (10A)?
Roland " I just put a new battery in a week before , due to the fact the truck sat for 3 years and was dead" Certainly the three of us are very interested in you getting your vehicle running again. A couple of questions would be helpful to me. Is this automatic or standard transmission, v6 engine? Sit for 3 years, undercover or outside. With the new battery did you have trouble starting after sitting 3 years? Did you have mice in cab or underhood? If you look at George LG picture, is it like yours?
My self US Navy minesweeper off coast functioned as patrol boat.
I recently had a similar problem with my blazer. Heres an idea if any of the other things suggested to you to try dont work. Look at your neutral saftey switch on the drivers side of the transmission, i had oil get into the plugs on mine from a oil leak and the starter wouldnt even click, cleaned the plugs out with cleaner, put them back in and it started fine. If the truck doesn't get proper feedback from the switch it wont start because it doesnt see thats its in park or neutral.
1ST - thanks to all you Vets in these posts and beyond for your service .....
2ND - the oil pressure sending unit should have nothing to do with a no crank situation - with certain models a no start / no run situation happens as it has some control over the fuel pump - low oil pressure the pump is shut down
Mission accomplished More things wrong then expected.
I met a Illinois state trooper at the shooting range interested in firing my AK's. In return he assisted me in trouble shooting all of you Guys suggestions.
# 1 All wire from battery to fuse boxes good/ all fuses and relays good.
#2 wires leading to ign. switch good.
#3 wires to oil sensor switch ( Hot) but switch not responding) replaced/
#4 wires to starter hot but found no reaction of solenoid, plus it had a crack in the plastic where wire connected. replaced starter
still no crank or sounds at all
#5 wires to Neutral switch hot but some areas not reacting or getting readings from meter. Replaced
turn key and truck started ! ! !
#6 BUT back to square one. low oil pressure less then 5 if that at idle speed and didn't budge during acceleration to 2k rpms Lots of lifter and possible bearing noise. Shut off immediately.
#7 replaced oil pump.... Bingo pressure at 20 idle and 40 at 2k rpm.
So I GUESS the Truck had a case of Electrical CANCER and killing off vital organs plus a PUMP ATTACK...!!! LOL
I cant thank you guys enough for you kindness / concerns & Knowledge . Now I can finish my last thing on my bucket list to date … Heading back to Woodstock for the 50th anniversary celebration Aug.16th...… I have a brick laid in the walk way to the original festival concert area there . see pic. below
Also here is a clip of me dancing with a Hippie church group there in 1969 . Im the crazy fool flapping my arms like I can fly....LOL I was out of it... LOL those were the Daze....lol
07-28-2019, 03:19 PM
