I have a 2000 Jimmy. The left rear power window stopped working. I traced out 2 issues, motor and main switch in Driver door. I have the keyless entry with fobs.
I got a new switch from Switch doctor and quickly installed it. Now I am having trouble with the fobs. They do not lock or unlock the doors. Not even the driver door. I read the owner manual and it stated how to resyncronize the fobs which I tried but no luck.
When I press the unlock button once I hear the system activate what sounds like the lock but nothing. I was not having any problems prior to replacing the main switch on driver door.

 

Do the power locks work properly with the buttons on either the driver or passenger doors?

Does proper functionality return when you reinstall the old switch?

There is very little that can go wrong with the window switches. Most often, it is a corrosion problem that can be remedied by disassembling, cleaning the contacts, and reassembling.

*EDIT* - After looking at the schematics, there isn't anything in the driver side switch that would prohibit the operation of the RKE system aside from the possibility that the switch itself is stuck in the unlock position. The inputs to the relays from the switch to the lock/unlock relays is parallel to the BCM inputs to the lock/unlock relays; meaning that the BCM outputs to control the relays operates independent to that of the switch. They both operate the relays, so if the unlock switch in the new part was stuck engaged, it could freeze things up I guess.

 

Reinstalled my old power window main switch and the FOBs worked correctly. Also prior to reinstalling my old switch I did try the locks with the door buttons on both the driver and passenger door and they worked correctly.
So it seems to me the new switch may be faulty

Also checked the left rear power window again. With the new switch or the old switch and old motor or new motor, the motors only go up.

 

Is that from both the main switch on the driver door as well as from the switch on the rear door?

Attached is the wiring schematic for the rear windows. The switches default to grounded state for both wires running to the motors. When activated, the switch provides power to the appropriate connection. If the up switch were not returning to ground properly in the either driver door master switch pack or the left rear window switch, it can prohibit the down operation of the window as ground must flow through the up switch normally closed contacts to allow for the down operation.

Since the problem persisted even with the new driver master switch pack, I would suspect the problem is with the left rear switch.

I would remove and test the left rear switch. Contacts A-C (A and C) as well as D-F (D and F) should show continuity through the switch. I suspect there is a problem with the A-C continuity. If that is what you find, I would disassemble the switch and see if you can clean the contacts with some rubbing alcohol and a q-tip. If they are heavily corroded, you may need to use some steel wool. Coat the contacts and any pivot points with dielectric grease and reassemble. Repeat the continuity test and see if the appropriate continuity is achieved.

Then check to ensure that the functions work as well. With the switch pressed to the UP position, continuity should be shown between B-C and D-F. With the switch pressed to the DOWN position, continuity should be shown between A-C and B-F.

Please let us know what you find. Good luck!

 

Well I switched the PW switches from the RR door to the LR door which is the one not going down. With the new switch it still will not go down. The switch in the RR door operates correctly.

I received a replacement master switch and installed that. Again LR PW does not go down and key FOBs do not lock or unlock doors.

Best I can do is get the driver door to lock with the FOB. It will not always unlock. Also found with both the replacement main switch is if I press the unlock a couple of time it will unlock then lock driver door again.

I did run the continuity tests suggested by Swartlkk and everything seemed to be correct, with old and new main switch.

 

Really frustrated with this problem.

Returning Main power window switch because it doesn't work with key FOBs. 2nd switch that did this. My old switch works fine with the FOBs.

New main switch also does not work the LR power window. Changed out RR switch with LR and LR window still does not go down. RR window works perfect.

Any other ideas?

 

I was finally able to recheck the above and here are the results

Now this is with switch that was in RR and worked

Switch removed

A-C Yes continuity
D-F Yes continuity

B-C pressed switch for up Yes continuity
D-F pressed switch for Up Yes continuity

A-C pressed switch for down Yes continuity
B-F pressed switch for down Yes continuity

This is also with a new motor installed in LR. The new motor and old motor worked up and down when I hooked direct to battery.

When I check the connection at the motor through the switch the blue wire, I beleive is the color, has power when pressed for up. Brown wire has power when pressed for down.

I am waiting on a new main power window switch.

Any suggestions of what else to look at? I was even able to move the window manually up and down with motor removed.

 

Suggest taking a really good look at the connector that goes to the driver's window/lock panel; look for corrosion and any loose contacts that might be getting pushed back into the connector body when mated to the control panel.

This panel is easily cleaned and not needed to be replaced. It is a pretty lousy design electrically and if anything is spilled onto it will likely result in something not working.

Good luck.

 

Got a new switch from Rock Auto. Installed that and the key FOBs worked as thy should. Unfortunately the LR window would still not operate.

This is also with switching the LR and the RR switches in the doors. The LR window will not move.

When I remove the motor it will only operate in one direction, up.