Well, it's not done properly. I don't know if it'll hurt anything but it is supposed to serve a purpose, and it can't do that if it's not hooked up.


The canister is difficult to get at, he may have broken the old line trying to pull it off and decided at that point to cap the line or maybe the plastic nipple itself broke.


I was having trouble getting my line off and I didn't want to risk breaking anything so I had to unbolt all the brake brackets and fuse box to get enough room to get a knife in there to cut the line off.

 

I might just look for it myself. What exactly does the canister look like?. It supposed to get up to 40 today so I'm gonna have to follow all lines I see that are new and old and try and see if there's contact being made on something too hot causing that smell

 

It's recessed into the fender, so it looks like a flat piece of plastic with a recessed nipple connection. It's a little hard to see, would probably be easier with a mirror.

 

IMO the mechanic next-door that you have a Bud with on Sat. afternoon's are the only ones that are ok to leave a screw in a vac line.


Paid guy's due it correctly, the reservoir is there to balance variations in vac so nothing that is controlled by them drops out at an inappropriate time.

 

Take a look at this pic, it shows where the line goes. In the picture the ABS system has been removed so you can see it clearly. http://john-stichnoth.com/sitebuilde...ll-744x560.jpg

Stick your finger back behind the ABS and you will feel the nipple (or maybe a torn piece of hose) through one of the access holes in the fender.

Also, this link might help..notice post #2 where it has another link. Post #3 will tell your mechanic how I did it. https://blazerforum.com/forum/engine...nowhere-75282/

EDIT: Concerning the burning smell, if he replaced all the vac lines, it's possible he has routed one too close to the exhaust manifold or down pipe. Maybe crawl under your truck and trace the lines that come from the transfer case to where they disappear up into the engine compartment. See if one is laying on the down pipe or something.

 

No one should leave a screw in a vac line (but yes especially not a shop etc), do it right

 

nah i completely agree, an ASE certified technician should not be half assing jobs like that, if it was that bad he couldve left the line in regardless of how bad it was...because i know it was there before...in very poor shape. it sounds like its a hassle to be done, or atleast not the easiest but the fact is the job shouldve been done right the first time

as for the pictures that makes alot more sense then trying to guess and check where the canister is so i do thank you for the visuals.

i was just running my new inline fuse holder (which he broke and claims he didnt) so i let the vehicle run for 10 mins in idle and still smell the burning. its very light but its right by those lines he "replaced" im trying to trace them but losing them quickly. my patience is short due to the fact its freezing out lol

 

The main thing with all of those hoses, is that the vacuum source, (from the engine) is connected to the black side of the Tee/check valve. Everything else, HVAC, reservoir, and 4WD all have to connect to the white side of the Tee/check valve. Doesn't matter what order they're in, or how you connect them, just so they all connect to the white side, and no leaks.

 

im not 100% sure he ever touched the one going to the transfer case, i think that was done maybe 2 years ago, because i couldnt get 4wd. i will still look at it though. if you had a second option of where the burning/melting line is, what do you think? ill check as much as i can at once

 

If you have the NV236, (4 button Auto 4WD), the vacuum switch is on the firewall, (not on the transfer case) just about in the center, and looks like this:



If you have the NV233, (3 button 4WD), the vacuum switch is on the transfer case and looks like this: