My 2000 Blazer 4.3L 4x4 has an oil leak. The leak is on one of the oil cooler parts. I'm trying to identify what the name and/or part number is. I think it might be called oil filter line adapter or something similar. The marking on the part is: 10172752 CAV II and it starts leaking immediately after the engine is started. As you can see, it looks like it might be cracked. As a side note, the flywheel/rear seal area is nice and dry.

Location wide view:
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...psceb778a2.jpg


Closeup of the part when dry. You can see the possible crack:
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...psd9e5883a.jpg



Here's a closeup of the part a few seconds after starting the engine:
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...psa932af22.jpg


Here are some items I found that I thought might be what I'm looking for.

One - ADAPTER. Engine Oil Filter
I think it's item number 4 (titled "ADAPTER. Engine Oil Filter" for $46.15) but I'm not positive partly because it only shows one (Item number 5) bolt.
Link to the full website assembly with parts list:
ENGINE OIL COOLER LINES | Nalley Buick GMC Brunswick

Here's the picture from the above page:
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/...ps549f9650.jpg



Two - GM PART #10236272
This kit is titled "Engine Oil Filter Adapter Hardware" for $76.87 but there are no pictures so I'm not sure if this is what I need.
GM Parts Direct: 10236272 - ADAPTER

Any thoughts?
Thanks.

 

That is the oil line adapter, it could be just the o-ring/seal for it, which is a common problem next to the oil lines leaking (since its right there, its not the lines) I would get the o-ring for the adapter and see if that fixes the problem.
Remember, when doing the o-ring to not tighten it down too much, or you could pinch the new o-ring too much and it will leak again, worse than before.

I personally have not heard of them cracking, which is why firs thing that comes to mind is the seal, o-ring.

Search RockAuto Parts Catalog part number # GS33281 That should be what you need.

 

A tip- if you do replace the o-ring and the gasket that goes between the adapter and the block be sure and peel the backing off the gasket before you install it. I did that job and didn't remove the backing from the gasket and my adapter leaked until I removed it and took the backing off both sides of the gasket.

 

Thanks for the help.

I have 2 follow up questions.

1) Toby, I got the adapter off and while looking at the block where it was removed, I'm guessing the black "D" shaped thing is the gasket you're referring to, right? If so, how did you remove it? Did you spray it with brake cleaner or something to loosen it up? I tried getting a pick in there but wasn't successful.


2) richphotos, I think you might be correct about the adapter not being cracked. Once I got it out I cleaned it up and it looks like it might just be a tool mark. You say not to tighten it down too much. Do you know if there's a torque spec for these? I remember seeing a torque value recently but I'm not sure if was actually for this.



Thanks again for your help.

 

The D-shaped gasket is exactly what I was talking about. It's going to be holy hell to get it out of there. What I did was slowly peel it out of the top of the housing using an angled scraper. Be careful that you don't scratch up the underside of the block. It's a somewhat delicate process. Brake cleaner may help but I didn't use any.

I don't know for sure but I think the torque spec for the block adapter is 26 ft-lbs. You can look it up in a shop manual or, if you have access to your local library's website, you might be able to get the torque specs through an online version of Chilton's. I get a lot of information through my library's website.