Painting rusted brake lines
#11
Actaully mine looked worse than yours when i was under the truck 3 days ago. but i went under the truck today and guess what? it started to leak! mine is leaking a few inches further back right where the chip guard ends. i haven't decided if im gonna section a new 10" section with inverted flare unions or go up a little higher towards the engine where the factory flare union is and come down to where the rust is and put a union there. not sure yet, but what ever is easier im doing.....
#12
dude, just cough up $20 and buy new brake lines of appropriate length to go from the line off the abs module all the way to the back (or from abs module to passenger front). Don't dick around with unions, just go back to the next coupling... brake lines are cheap...
#13
there is no need to run a line from the ABS module because there is a factory union joint at the frame rail right behind the drivers side front wheel. it only makes sense to go from that union right down to where the rust is 2 feet down and put a new union joint right there....so id be running 2 feet of new linw from the factory union joint to where the rust leak is and putting a new union joint there.....
#14
so i am working on a 95 trail blazer. i have to take the Engine out and all of the side panels. But heres the thing, i have know idea what i am doing and i'm having a problem taking off the side panels off.
1) first i have all of the bolts that i can see off of the side panels, but it still wont move. is htere any tricks to this?
1) first i have all of the bolts that i can see off of the side panels, but it still wont move. is htere any tricks to this?
#16
The line son these generation Blazers fail easily from rust. The most common spot is where the line runs next to the fuel tank. Salt gets up there, but has no way to exit and it eats at the line. Mine failed at 74k miles and it was garage kept. The design was very bad by GM and has been a bad design for many years (using steel lines and having no exit for salt that gets lodged on the lines. Replacing the lines are not that easy because of the many bends and inability to easily access. I have replaced my lines with a copper/ nickle line only sold at AutoZone. Tests have shown this line last for decades in salty areas and is used in Europe by high end manufactures like Aston Martin and Volvo.
I have sprayed my fuel lines with Rust-Oleum rust restorer which claims to reverse the rust process. Not sure if it will help, but I know doing nothing will surely result in replacing the lines soon. This product is sold at Wally World in the auto AND paint department.
I have sprayed my fuel lines with Rust-Oleum rust restorer which claims to reverse the rust process. Not sure if it will help, but I know doing nothing will surely result in replacing the lines soon. This product is sold at Wally World in the auto AND paint department.
#18
If you're going to replace the lines, Stainless would be the way to go. It's harder to bend, but will essentially NEVER rust. Doing a small section would help with the cost.
There are MANY rust restoring/covering/etc products. I would never consider this a fix, just a "help", it will only buy you some time against further rusting.
There are MANY rust restoring/covering/etc products. I would never consider this a fix, just a "help", it will only buy you some time against further rusting.
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landob123
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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09-27-2014 10:01 AM
fslobodecki@yahoo.com
Engine & Transmission
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04-15-2011 10:02 PM
blazersince87
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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03-24-2011 05:32 PM