The coils are over the shocks, but they are normal shocks shouldn't be too difficult to replace. Coilover shocks are normally used on front wheel drive cars (they serve the purpose of an upper control arm) and are ussually refered to as struts rather than shocks, but they serve the same job.

 

Is it 2wd or 4wd? If it's 2wd the shocks are inside the coils, but the coils are not attached to the coil. Just a regular shock that happens to be mounted inside the coil like most GM cars from the 70s and 80s. Couple bolts and swap them out. 4wd has torsion bars instead of coil springs, and regular shocks too.

I have 2 Blazers. 1 is a zr2, the other is a 4 door LT. I always thought the 4 door is bouncy, so I bought new Bilstein shocks (OEM GM replacements) when I replaced the tires. It's a little less bouncy but not great. The spring rate is just too soft for my taste. Ball joints are probably ok with 60,000 miles/100,000km unless you ran oversized tires. My 4 door has 190,000 miles on the originals and I check them every time I rotate the tires. The zr2 has bigger tires and they are ready to be replaced at 100,000 miles. 4wd wheel bearings go out regularly, and will alert you to the problem with whining or grinding noises. I lost my first one at around 70000 miles.

I'm going to go against everyone on this one. I don't replace batteries until I notice they are getting bad. My f150 had the original battery last 12 years, and 3 aftermarket batteries took it the next 8 years. Both Blazers are 12 years old and have had batteries replaced once.

I change the coolant every 30-35000 miles or 3 years, whichever comes first. Especially with GM orange antifreeze.

 

Thanks everyone for the answering my questions.

To start I'm taking the recommendation to buy two new lights. The parts girl said that the stock lights don't get dimmer with age ( replacement cost on those are $7/each )

The had 50w ( bulbs that work with stock wiring ) which are one step under HID.
They were $86 for the pair, 50% off. Shows how much they are over priced! ( I choose to replace the low beams which are the day time running lights, not the high beams ) That would be an additional $86. I don't use them that much.

I lifted hook but don't see how to change these.

Can someone help me out?

Q: Do I have to remove battery and air filter housing to access some "connector juncture" ?

I will be going through my list I posted each step as I like to track my progress and have others be able to refer to my progress.

 

You just lift the 2 plastic tabs per side (pull them straight up), then you can pull the headlights out. You can probably just tilt them forward far enough to twist the bulb sockets out and change the bulbs.

I recommend only tilting them forward so you don't pull the mounting tabs on the headlights out of their slot on the support. If you do, just make sure you get those tabs back in or they won't be aimed correctly.

Oh and this is my recommendation because I have a bushguard lol. If I didn't I probably would just pull the grille off and make life that much easier.

 

Could you tell me where these pull tabs are , I think I see them in the pics but want the pictures here to help others.

 

Circled them there for ya. You just pull them straight up then you will be able to take them out.

They just clip into a prong on the back of the headlight and a little flat screw head on the truck.

 

Thanks very much for the circling them for me.

Here are some tips:

1 - torque head T16 I believe i used to lossen one screw on medal circle light hold down part
2 - to take electrical off, try and get blue tabs up first then pry up the long tabs as you pry up turn screw driver to push it up.
3 - you can turn the light to get better angle on the electrical

Simple job!
Now lets see if the aim is still good and if the brightness is any better than the $7 bulb!

#2 COMPLETED - THANKS
#1- NEXT SERPENTINE BELT:

Current observations:

1 - When condensor comes on engine rpm drops which is weird as I'm only using heat. When I turn heat off it doesn't click on and off. I thought the condessor was for A/C? In the manual it states A/C when on will reduce power output and to not worry about it.

2 - Tensioner pulley does seem move escessively until condesor kicks on, I wonder if I can submit a video for your review? Maybe I'll upload it to youtube.... I checked underneath belt and the grooves don't seem worn out or anything.

 

Just to update everyone, I bought a new battery and decided to not risk it since I was travelling to Calgary.

The lights I bought are great!

I'm going to review the rest of the post for other items to look at.

 

I changed my stock battery last weekend JIK mine is a 05 as well
It is pretty cold here right now and dont want to be screwing around at 6am