2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

quick 4wd ?..hopefully

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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #41  
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^^^ i'm begining to wonder about that guy above you.

the guy just joined yesterday, posted 7 of his 9 post here, and first says he has a '01 in two consecutive posts, but then says he has a '02.

seriously, is this guy for real?

nice diagram BTW.
 
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #42  
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Didn't think this many ppl would hop in the post, haha sorry guys.


I'm gonna go check on a manual soon. pretty much the consensus I'm getting is that I need to check everything, again.


back to the gridiron.

-hp
 
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 05:31 PM
  #43  
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Default quick 4wd ?..hopefully

Anyone know if low fluid would cause a 99 blaze to go into 4lo and stay there?

-hp
 
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:05 PM
  #44  
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Low fluid should not cause the transfer case to change positions on its own if that is what you are asking.

If you put it into 4LO and now cannot get out, low fluid could have caused something inside the transfer case to lock up...
 
Old Feb 21, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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sucks but a systematic step by step check, re-check, then UN-re-check was the only way i was able to find out my 4wd woes were due to my tcem being plugged into my feul sending unit and vice versa....
nothing like telling your fuel pump that you need 4lo while it's telling the tccm you are at 1/2 a tank
 
Old Feb 22, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by hpb182
Aight guys, here's what I got.


I checked the valve underneath the battery tray, unhooked it..Checked the hose connected to. The hose is sucking air and that valve beneath the battery tray seems to be working..
I mean, when I crank the engine, heres what I have observed:

1) TCCM clicks twice
2) Buttons stays lit continuously in 4lo
3) Encoding motor grinds for a quick second
4) No air coming out of any hoses.


-HP
OK, Under the battery tray; when it's attempting to go into 4WD you should see teh actuator pull that 1/4" cable in about 1". does it?
You say you do not feel any air coming out of any of the three hoses at the Switch on top of the Transfer case: That's because One of the hoses should be SUCKING air. When you put the truck in 4WD the switch opens to allow the on sucking hose to suck the Actuator under the battery tray. When the actuator gets sucked in and pulls in that 1/4" cable that goes to teh Front Differential, then there is a switch on the Diff that keeps the light on at teh dashboard.
 
Old Feb 22, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #47  
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Default Problem solved!

Its fixed! I replaced the sensor mounted on the front rear end ( right where the cable on the other end of the actuator goes ) I sold it 3 hours later! Huzaah! Thanks for all the help and posts, great forum!
 
Old Feb 22, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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...soo...we helpped you fix the blazer...so you could turn your back on it?

For Shame....

did you at least tell the new owner to check out the forum? (and not who you were so he didn't know he was buying your broke ride)
 
Old Feb 22, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ABN31B
...soo...we helpped you fix the blazer...so you could turn your back on it?

For Shame....

did you at least tell the new owner to check out the forum? (and not who you were so he didn't know he was buying your broke ride)
X2 on everything you said Curtis-especially the last one.

but the guy would prbably figure it out sooner or later, and then he'd know where to bash him, day & night.
 
Old Feb 23, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #50  
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Default STILL STUCK IN 4hell...I mean 4lo.

Dude, congrats on getting it fixed Combs...

Only to **** me off that I can't get mine fixed, haha.


Went to a tranny shop yesterday to get them to check the code, he said he'd do it for 50 dollars...


Needless to say, I didnt get him to read it. I cant fathom paying 50 dollars yet when it may be a 10 $ actuator. Trust me though, I do know that it is a sure fire way of finding out what the problem is...BUT!!


Last night after work I musterd up the strength to go back out there, 3rd day in a row guys, to try and tinker around with it.

I focused on the vacuum actuator underneath the battery cause I've checked all the hoses, etc. TCCM looks perfec ( with reg. clicks im assuming at start up). Anyway, I was fooling around with the actuater and decide to unhook it from the brace ( i had already taken it off the fender well). Well, what I found out is that when you take those screws out and crank the engine, it pulls the actuator towards the cable ( more or less it feels the gab between the plasitc housing outside of the actuator towards the cable itself.)

NOW, while I don't find this unusual, my question is : Does this rule out the fact that it could be a faulty vacuum actuator? Like, would it still have moved like that when I simply cranked the car? Because for some reason, I only thought the cable would pull the actuator unless the 4wd was trying to be engaged??

Thanks for all the help guys, I really do appreciate it.
 



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