The rear passenger side brake had been rubbing for some reason so I gave it a look and decided to replace the caliper and the rotor. The pads were not worn down so I kept them the same. I started driving it again and the wheel squeaks/rubs for the most part except at times when I apply the brake. I can feel extra heat coming off of the wheel after an extended ride. Im pretty sure that the rubbing has nothing to do with the E-brake which is a drum brake. I feel like most of the heat is originating from the top of the rotor where the pads engage. How could the pads still be rubbing with a brand new caliper? Could it be that my pads are just bad and they to be replaced as well? This doesn't make sense because the pads have a fair amount of meat on them. Basically everything has been replaced on the wheel except for the pads themselves, could these be the culprit? If not, what could it be? Please help.

 

Did you bleed the brakes? Also the rear drums could be rubbing if you didn't back out the adjuster wheel in the E brake part of the assembly. With the pads removed (disk brake) loosen the adjuster wheel & rotate the axle (in neutral, blocks etc). If you can't or there is resistance you have to loosen it more. Google adjust parking brakes for a proper, more in depth way.

 

Did you grease the caliper slide pins and the metal shims the pads travel on?

 

I bled the brakes after I replaced the caliper, as for the e-brake its not rubbing, plus the e-brake pads are very low anyway. I even took it apart after a ride and the inside of the drum was just warm, the rotor itself where the pads touch was on fire, abnormally hot.

 

The slide pins were already greased because the whole caliper assembly was brand new. I didnt grease the metal shims though. I have never greased the metal shims in the past and I have never had this problem before. Do you think that will help?

 

I have the same problem and i've read about the brake hoses (the flexible black lines) imploding on itselves due to old age. When this happens, the presure in the calliper stays high after releasing the pedal because the fluid can not go back to the master cyllinder.
Mine are only warm when i drove in town and had to brake a lot. After a 40 mile trip on the highway there is no heat at all. So i figured that the fluid is returning very slow. I'll change the hoses some day next month and i will post back if there is any difference.

 

Yeah a collapsed brake line would do that. The high pressure braking force pushes fluid to the caliper but because the inside of the line is collapsed it doesn't release as fast & that = excessive heat.
As for lubing the pins it's always a good idea & the shims is for brake noise.

 

did the pads slide into the slides really easy? i do alot of brakes and some of them get so bad we have to wire wheel the heck out of them cause the rust build up is so bad it makes the pads stick. they should slide pretty easily on there.

also if your brakes are actually sticking, like with the wheel off you cant turn the rotor, try opening your bleeder. if it frees up you probably have a bad rubber line like the others have said

 

I replaced the rubber hose today, made sure the brakes slide back and forth freely and I went for a drive and its still sqeaking like crazy. The only thing that I didnt replace on the wheel were the pads themselves but they still had alot of meat left. Do you think new pads will cure the squeak? I even used anti-squeal on the pads and it didnt help.