my heat cuts in and out and i have to sometimes hit the blower to get it to work again and now its on its last legs, and i started taking it apart im having a issue getting to a bolt its the one down on the bottom close to the fender, any secrets to getting to that pain in the ***? and should it just slide right out or do i need to remove the computer?

 

If you're working on a late 1995 with the PCM mounted on top of the coolant reservoir, on the right front inner fender: Yes, remove the PCM and reservoir, then you can get right at the blower motor.

 

ok now how does the PCM come out of the mounting bracket and how many bolts should i look for to take out the coolant tank

 

PCM has 3-4 bolts that can be seen from the top down, really easy to remove. Make sure to remove the electrical connectors before you try to remove it. Pretty simple.

There's, if I remember, 6 small bolts that need to be taken out for the fan. 1-2 are a pain in the *** to get to (bottom one was for my 98, took one out of an older blazer, same thing). For the hard to remove bolts, the only thing I could do was fit the ratchet connector on and twist by hand, it's a real bitch.

Before you remove the whole blower motor, make sure that's the part with the problem. If it's making a grinding sound the bearing is bad, if not wiggle the connector on the back to make sure the connection is good. Not much to the blower to be honest, if hitting the dashboard (not blower) causes it to kick back on my bet is on the dashboard controls/connection being faulty. But if you're hitting the motor itself I'd bet it's one of the connectors on the blower.

 

thanks for the info so far guys, and yes it is the actual blower it blows out real weak as well and i do have to hit the fan to get it to kick back on, and it has a squeak in it too

 

Yeah, mine is like that. The bearing is going in it (or is gone) so it won't rotate right, and probably stuck half the time.

 

well i just got done finishing it (in the rain) now it blows out nice steady strong air, i let it run for a few to see if it got warm, it did, but not insanely hot, im sure it'll get warmer as it is moving to let the fluids flow properly, but anyways, the top hose on the coolant tank, should that be connected to something or is it for overflow?

 

The hose on top that routes down towards the ground does not go to anything. That is to route coolant to the ground if you were to boil over so it doesn't spray all over the engine compartment.