happy thanks giving all

i got everything back together and have a couple things to report after test driving it around

basically the only new thing i added was 2qts gear oil and RTV Black for the axle housing flange to diff surfaces.

i did notice:
passenger wheel hub assy needs replaced.
passenger cv axle will need replaced sometime within a year prob.

now here are the results of test drive

4HI DOES engage but it does NOT like to disengage
i have to run over a pretty good bump

now since the 4WD is engaging i noticed something maybe normal maybe strange

02 if im going about 4mph in 4HI and take my foot of gas and brake pedal it will stop me pretty fast.
it will actually not idle forward on its own (it will stop me)
i will have to give quite a bit of gas pedal to get moving

im not in 4LO i checked by switching to it
while in 4LO it moves forware quite a bit easier

how can i tell if im binding somewhere in the front diff or if i have something put together wrong?

thanks

 

Did you replace the vacuum switch on the transfer case?
When you removed the vacuum connector from the vacuum switch, did you notice transmission fluid in the lines?

Both of these could contribute to slow engagement/disengagement of the axle. It's also possible there are still some burrs or rough edges on the sleeve & gears.

The "stop me pretty fast" issue in 4WD could be due to a slight difference in tire size or inflation pressure. All 4 tires must be the same size, if one or more are worn down, a different size, or tire pressure is different, the driveline will bind. FYI: Do not use 4WD on dry pavement.

 

im thinking its burs like you said but man i used a small pick to check all the edges pretty good
do you think it could be the pilot bearing making where the 1/2 shaft plugs into the drive gear being at a bad angle?
i tested it for play when i pre-assembled and it felt good from like side to side but i could tilt the 1/2 shaft pretty far if i put the drive gear on its end like on a flat surface and then set the 1/2 shaft into it vertically.
do you know anything about a company named detroit axle
they make remanufactured wheel hub assemblies (2 for $69.00 shipped off ebay)
they have a 1 year warr or 12,000 miles but i have heard sometime that companies like that dont heat treat their parts and they fail quickly

would like to get a cheap pair that is descent quality and same thing for a pair of cv axles

 

Stay away from el cheapo hub assemblies. $69 a pair can't be good. The only "Detroit Axle" around here was owned by Chrysler and it closed down in 2011 after almost 100 years in operation. Someone probably picked up their, (well known) name and started selling stuff. I'd stay away.

I realize you cleaned the gears up, but, the end of each tooth has an angle cut to help mesh the 2 shafts with the sleeve when they're rotating at slightly different speeds. That might be what's causing the problem.

 

I have a 98 chevy blazer lt, I have been trying to figure out how to fix my 4x4. My transfer case is enaging properly but myfront dif is not. I checked the vacuum switch and t seemed like the diaphragm was fatigued so i eplaced the part and even with the new part it wouldnt engage. I the tried manually pulling on cable to engage front diff and it still will not work. Anyone know what i should try next? It seems to make a click sound when i pull on it and feels like its locking but its not.

 

If manually pulling on the cable at the front axle actuator diaphram does not lock the right axle, the problem is in the axle tube. It will need to be removed and disassembled to diagnose the problem. This thread covers the procedure a few posts back. If you have further questions, start a new thread and we can answer them more specifically. Thanks.