Oh i'm sorry. I was a little in shock when I thought you were talking about my tranny. Maybe it is in the computer, but not severe enough to throw a code. Hope Aamco lives up to their commercials.

 

Went to Aamco today and got the flush and filter. The tech test drove it and found no problems. They dropped the pan, changed the filter, closed it up, and then used the machine to put in 100% new fluid. Tranny seems to run a little smoother, but I haven't had the chance to try 2 yet, but if it drives fine, I am okay with that. The tech said it was "a good candidate for a flush and filter". I also gave them a coupon for a free external checkup and they found no problems. I also had them try the 4WD to make sure it is working properly. The mechanic came in the waiting room and said "4WD works fine". I had them test it because I have had some other anomalies under the hood probably related to it since they changed the intake manifold gasket (at another shop) and I didn't know 100% if they hooked up all the vacuum lines properly since I heard after the repair that those mechanics have a habit of messing up other things, so that was a relief. The only other thing is that now I hear some faint clicking noise coming from the front end that I can only hear if the window is open and I am listening for it and the frequency of the clicks increases with speed ( this is in 2wd on pavement) . CV Joint? I had a slow leak about a month ago from the edge of it near the band on the inner joint, but nothing serious. Used rubber adhesive and didn't see any more grease specks splattered on the control arm since. I don't think it is the front diff because we had the whole front diff fixed last year (broken shift fork that ground the gears) and I can move the front driveshaft with barely any difficulty in 2WD. Aamco's Service: A+. Did the filter, flush and inspection for $169.99 plus tax after the coupon on their site. They didn't even try to sell me anything (rebuilds, new tranny, nothing). I even requested price quotes for a transfer case and rear diff flush just as a preventative measure. Trying to cover all the bases with fluids and maintenance to make sure we don't get slammed with a $3000 repair bill for a new transmission, transfer case, engine or diff.
Thanks alot to all of you for all the help on this matter .

ComputernerdBD

 

Computernerd, you're not alone. I too have accidentally shifted to 2nd from a dead stop and noticed the same thing, noticably reduced acceleration. I never drove more than 10 feet in second gear though because the lack of acceleration had me worried (I'd only had the blazer a month the first time it happened). But, my transmission has never shown any signs of having problems. I've dropped the tranny pan to change the filter and some fluid and didn't see any cause for concern there. Tranny seems to run flawlessly. Swartlkk's comment makes sense. He's pretty knowledgable. I don't think you should stress about it until you have reason to believe you actually have a problem.

PS. I also have a slight grease leak from the drivers side CV boot. I might give the rubber adhesive a try.

 

Thanks. At least I know it is not an isolated thing and I have a good tranny. Also FYI when I did the adhesive I just formed a band around the inner metal ring of the inner CV joint. Seemed to hold up well the next day on the interstate going 65 mph. Make sure it is clean though and allow at least 8 hours before driving it. I haven't tried 60 sec epoxy that says it bonds rubber yet since it seems that the leak is under control, for now. I am probably going to get it replaced in the next month anyway because the passenger side axle is new and the glue might only be a temp. fix anyway.

And also about the clicking, as I said, it is faint, coming from the front left behind the wheel and the clicks increase in frequency as I speed up and I can only hear it when the window is open. I know the 4x4 is working because I jacked up the LF wheel and spun it. Felt like some drag and I heard some faint, repeatative noises as I spun the wheel. I could spin and let it go and it will only rotate 1.5 rotations and stop. I am hoping that it is not the front diff not fully disengaging because we had to have the whole thing repaired last year for a broken shift fork that destroyed all the gears. Even the dealer was shocked when they opened the diff. Car was out of commission for 2 weeks. Could some cable be stuck that activates the diff? I know the 4x4 engages properly because I drove on our back lawn before to get something out of the back shed and actually got stuck and ripped up the grass (sorry mom!). Put it in neutral > 4HI > 1 + a little gas and got unstuck instantly (yay part time 4x4. AWD is for babies!). I also put it in 4HI before I raised the LF wheel and I was only able to rotate the wheel a couple inches each way and I saw the front driveshaft move a little bit and prohibit me from moving it further.

Thanks alot for all the help on these problems. At least I know THERE ARE honest, knowledgeable people out there who actually care. I've went to a local shop in October with a free oil change and filter coupon that someone we knew gave us and they said I need a new idler arm that they said would not last the ride back home 15 miles away when just 2 months before it got new ball joints and a full alignment! I got home, we checked it out, the whole front end is tight, no play in it, fully aligned. They also rifled through my glovebox and console because I saw them do it and I found things disorganized when I got the car back. Needless to say, that was my first and last trip to them.

ComputerNerdBD

 

X3!! I did the same thing with 2nd. Even made a post here and got no responses as to what it was. Talked to my GM buddy, and he said some GM's are designed to do that. Slippery conditions warrant a 2nd gear take off.