I'd have gotten into researching that tomorrow, but that'll definately save that time. Tx swartlkk, your info all up and down this forum has me at least feeling like I'm moving in the right direction. Now to fix this stalling @ idle when warm thing... I'm gettin the ICM tested tomorrow, we'll see.

 

Looking to clean my egr. Do they sell the screened gasket for an 84 or do I just need to go with the regular one?

 

I had taken my '95 Blazer to the dealership and they said it would cost me $300 to fix it. I told them I would pay the $70 for the diagnostic and pick it up. That's when they told me that it should run alright since they took out the EGR valve and banged it on the ground to clear it out! Sounds shady if you ask me. Bought a new valve and gasket for $120 and replaced it myself. This thread will help me out the next time I need to take it out and clean it! Thanks!

 

With all due respect...30-45 minutes my dimpled, spandex-covered butt.

Figure out how to get to the EGR valve without removing the intake plenum.
Pull the air filter and intake off of the throttle body; put aside.
Use 10mm socket and extension to remove the lower bolt.
Jockey around, finally use 10mm socket, u-joint, and extension to remove upper bolt.
Unplug connector.
Work EGR valve around and remove.
Clean.
Scrape off what little bits of old gasket stick to engine and valve.
Jockey valve back into place.
Try to stick upper bolt in hole a little bit.
Drop bolt.
Fish it back out. Drop it in an even more inaccessible place just before it clears.
Cuss.
Decide to at least get the lower bolt and gasket in place before hunting for dropped bolt.
Drop gasket down into the air conditioner compressor bracket.
Cuss louder.
Shrug and decide to remove compressor to get gasket out.
Disengage serpentine belt.
Remove two bolts and associated nuts.
Compressor won't budge.
Feel around. Hunt around. Finally find third bolt holding compressor in.
Remove brace on compressor bracket to gain access to third bolt.
Remove nut from third bolt.
Use long-bladed screwdriver to try to get bolt past compressor clutch.
Drop screwdriver in the bottom of the engine compartment, on top of plastic skid plate.
Try to reach screwdriver. Fail.
Cuss vigorously.
Discover that the screwdriver can be reached through the oil filter access door.
Discover where the oil filter is. Whee.
Retrieve screwdriver.
Finally use tire iron to get bolt past clutch. Yes, the flat side was next to the clutch.
Wish I knew the GM engineer whose bright idea that was so I could cuss him better.
Tug on A/C compressor. It barely budges.
Disconnect wires.
Tug on A/C compressor. It barely budges.
Get tire iron. Pry gently on compressor. Work it out of bracket.
Retrieve gasket.
Boy, that EGR valve is a lot easier to get to now.
Find upper bolt sitting on brace behind where A/C compressor sits. Retrieve it. Install it in EGR valve, using it to hold gasket in place.
Work gasket around so it lines up with EGR valve and bolt hole. Fiddle, twist, and wrangle things around. Finally get the lower bolt started.
Tighten upper bolt.
Tighten lower bolt.
Wrangle A/C compressor back into bracket.
Beat on it gently to get it in place.
Install upper bolt and first nut.
Beat on compressor a little more so outer bolt will go in.
Tap on outer bolt with plastic mallet and screwdriver to get it past the clutch.
Cuss that genius GM engineer some more.
Install nut.
Where'd that third bolt go?
Cuss loud, long, and inventively.
Decide that the bolt fell down behind the headlight.
Discover that grille is ridiculously easy to remove.
No bolt.
Cuss violently.
Spot bolt laying in driveway.
****** it up and slide it in place.
Beat on bolt with long screwdriver and plastic mallet through convenient hole in fan shroud to get it past clutch.
Plot inventive ways of torture for idiot GM engineers with bright ideas.
Tighten nut. Make sure all 3 compressor bolts are tight.
Reconnect connectors.
Reconnect connector at EGR valve, too.
Reinstall serpentine belt.
Reinstall brace from engine to A/C compressor bracket.
Remove, reinstall brace after figuring out that that &*%^ heater hose that's been in the way all this time needs to go on the other side of it.
Reinstall grille.
Reinstall air intake plastic parts.
Pick up tools.
Put away tools.
Stow tire iron in back.
Wipe dirt off of fenders.
Come inside, wash hands.
Write this posting.
Realize that I'd forgotten to plug the IAT sensor connector back in.
Go back out, open garage door, open hood, plug in connector.
Come back inside. Finish posting.
Go back outside. Run engine. No MIL. Decide it's a success.

Total time: 4 hours.

 

Man you did way too much work there, its seriously a 30-45 minute job. Use your left brain.

 

Just like using a piece of rubber hose to start the spark plugs into the cylinder heads, a piece of rubber hose pushed up onto the hex of a screw works quite well for those hard to reach places.

 

Garry you mean the negative terminal I believe, Awesome post, any recommended cleaners seafoam i hear works well and you could use it both vaccum and exhuast side no?

thanks - Brian

 

@Gary2000Blazer

HAHAHAHAHA! This is what I usually go through working on things. I'm just an ameture and work alone, learning as I go. It takes me 2-3 times longer to do a lot of things. Minus the super simple ones like oil changes.

 

The only warning I have here is that I NEVER disconnect the positive cable first! Unless of course it is a positive ground vehicle. Its much safer to disconnect the ground cable first.

 

Couple EGR questions. I did mine this past week and noticed a HUGE difference in throttle response pulling onto the highway/going up steep hills (and so far no more EGR or po3xx codes). Thanks for the write up.

My EGR (98 4x4 blazer) didn't have a gasket under it when I unbolted it. Could this have been half my issue? Also, I didn't find a gasket with a screen. So I got one without. Is it that big a deal? Seems like the screen will be one more thing to build up carbon and choke your exhaust.